Newsletter #248 - Ontario at the Crossroads (part 2b): The Generation Gap

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MichaelPinkusWineReview Newsletter #248             February 2015

• WineReview: Ontario at the Crossroads: The Generation Gap (part 2)
  

• Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
  

• Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

• Wine Event Spotlight:  See What's Going on in Wine Country

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WineReview:  Ontario at the Crossroads: The Generation Gap (part 2)

Last time out we talked about how grapes are sold here in Ontario and how it is counter-intuitive to making really good wine … if you missed it you can catch up by clicking here.  I also told you that within Ontario’s family owned and run wineries there lies a generation gap of philosophy between the need for less yield to make quality wines, and the desire for substantial tonnage to maximize profits – call it old school thought versus new school thought – and this is all set out by the Grape Growers of Ontario (GGO), basically the same thing as the Milk Marketing Board and any other union-like organization in Ontario that dictates (sorry, “negotiates”) how businesses should be run and how much we/they have to pay for things.

When we stopped, I left you with what you were probably thinking as the “quick fix” to the issue: own your own vineyard and crop it at the levels you want to make quality wine (wipe hands here and say “done”).  Not so fast my friend.  I’m about to tell you one of the craziest notions you’re ever likely to hear, and it helps if you’re sitting down; it’s a policy that has a way of bringing a winery to its financial knees:  a winery has to buy its own grapes at market price.  I’ll say that again:  A winery has to buy its own grapes to make its own wine and pays the GGO their fee for “marketing” them.  To themselves?  

I do not know of any other wine producing region in the world where the winery pays for their own grapes, or for the marketing of them, from the very vineyard they own.  It seems preposterous, you’re paying for your own raw materials that you yourself planted and grew through the season.  Imagine if you grew tomatoes in your own backyard – you lovingly nurture and care for them through the spring and summer months, watering them, fertilizing them, caring for their every need – and the moment those tomatoes are ready to pick you had to buy them from the ‘tomato marketing board’ … you’re buying your own tomatoes.  The GGO calls it a fee for giving the grapes providence (ie:  paperwork that shows they are 100% Ontario), but it’s still charged by the ton – should this not be a flat fee?

It’s the kind of backward thinking that take place right here in Ontario when it comes to grape growing and wine making, and it doesn’t matter if you are selling the grapes to yourself or to another winery.  Money has to change hands between the grower and the winery – even if they’re the same person.  This practice handcuffs wineries and aids in the generation gap that exists in this province, here’s why:  Ma and Pa have been growing grapes for 20+ years; son / daughter want to get into the family business but not as growers, as producers.  They start the process of licensing and opening a winery while their offspring heads off to get educated in the world of winemaking (learning the tricks of the trade) – comes back to take over the helm of winemaking.  Here’s just part of the conversation that ensues:

“Dad I need 2 tons or less per acre to make a quality wine”
“Son, that vineyard easily yields 5 tons to the acre, I’m not throwing money on to the ground.”
And so it goes.  The farmer does not want to trim yield, even if it’s to his own detriment.

The only way to fix this would be to exempt the grapes a winery uses from its own vineyards from having to pay for them (but then the GGO would lose revenue, so would they agree to that?  Doubtful.)  A winery/vineyard should have to declare before picking how much they intend to use and how much they will be “selling” to outside wineries.  If a winery plans to use 50% of its yield they are exempt from paying grape prices – to themselves – for those grapes; the other 50% is sold at fair market price, or should I say “negotiated market price”, with all the fees that go along with it.  It seems reasonable and fair that a winery should not have to pay for their own grapes … but Ontario regulations governing wineries have never been known for being reasonable and fair … and that’s one of the reason that Ontario wineries are in rougher shape then they should be and it contributes to the generation gap that’ll end up closing down a number of Ontario’s family run operations.

Ed. Note:  According to the GGO a winery only pays $10 per ton for grapes – and that is a fee for the processing and paperwork guaranteeing the providence of the grapes for VQA regulations.  For example:  a winery selling one ton of Cabernet Franc gets $1200, if they keep the ton they pay $10 … when presented with this scenario many wineries I spoke with said “it doesn't work that way round here” - meaning they pay for their own grapes. 

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  New and Noteworthy Wines

Between the Lines 2013 Chardonnay, Reserve - $21.95 (W)
www.betweenthelineswinery.com
I like Chardonnay that straddles that line of oak flavour and fruit … Between the Lines must feel the same way as this reserve spent 8-10 months in 500L French oak (all new) but they also added 30% aged in stainless steel.  There’s a freshness here with a fruitiness of peach, pear, apple and a sweetness that can only be referred to as fruit-derived.  The oak kisses the fruit allowing it to shine adding hints of spice and retains great acidity for balance.  Price: $21.95 – Rating: ****

Chateau des Charmes 2012 Gamay Noir, Estate - $13.95 (W, L)
www.fromtheboscfamily.com  
Maybe I’m not the right guy to review Gamay … I love the grape and have high standards for the wines made from it; the mediocre stuff just doesn’t cut it.  This Chateau des Charmes version won the gold medal at the Ontario Wine Awards and shows real depth.  The aromas are cherry and black cherry in nature, which continues on the palate and delivers on balancing acidity with a great finish – where you’ll find hints of smokiness.  Come to think of it, maybe I am the right guy, us Gamay-lovers have to keep the standards of Ontario up when it come this this great, yet under-appreciated grape.  Price: $13.95 - Rating: ****+

Cooper’s Hawk 2012 Cabernet Franc Reserve - $34.95 (W)
www.coopershawkvineyards.com
Alas, poor Cooper’s Hawk, the winter of 2013 decimated their vineyard, but thankfully ’12 was a good year and this Cabernet Franc Reserve will help to remind people what kind of beauty wines they are able to put into bottle (given grapes to use of course).  Aromas of cassis, tobacco and black cherry give way to smoky, leathery, blackberry, mocha, vanilla and plum on the palate.  There’s a pleasantly juicy character to this wine and with some time in glass there’s an element of black cherry that begins to emerge on the tongue.  The wine shows nice complexity and there’s a good ageability-factor, say 5+ years, while still laying in some soft tannins.  Price: $34.95 - Rating: ****+

Inniskillin 2013 Viognier, Botrytis Affected - Discovery Series - $39.95/ 375ml (W, L)
www.inniskillin.com
This 2000-bottle production is a very special bottling of grapes that were discovered to have noble rot (botrytis), a relatively rare occurrence here, but always welcome if treated properly.  Aromas of honeyed pineapple, vanilla, apricot and sweet caramel apple … Palate has a delightful creamy texture along with vanilla, apple core, hint of butterscotch and balancing acidity … if you buy a few be sure to age some, because this should reveal great aromas and flavours in its maturity.  Price: $39.95 / 375ml – Rating: ****+

Leaning Post 2013 Gamay - $25.00 (W)
www.leaningpostwines.com
I love it when serious producers take a grape like Gamay under their wing and lift it upon their shoulders.  Here we have Leaning Post’s version, aged 50% in stainless steel and 50% in older oak barrels.  Light in colour with a nose of sour cherry, cranberry and floral which follows on the palate … it comes off as slightly Pinot-esque with its good structure and acidity along with a touch of bitterness on the long finish.  Price: $25.00 – Rating: ****

Tawse 2010 Spark, David’s Block - $39.95 (W)
www.tawsewinery.ca
This 30-month on lees 100% Chardonnay sparkling wine is another beauty bubble from Tawse.  Mineral, almond biscotti and dry apple cider all appear on the palate, plus there’s a wonderful mouth-refreshing acidity.  Price: $39.95 – Rating: ****

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line).

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