Newsletter #260 - Tributes to Lailey Vineyard
28 Jul 2015- Details
- Category: Newsletter Archives
MichaelPinkusWineReview Newsletter #260
July 2015
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WineReview: Tributes to Lailey Vineyard
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Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wine
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Weekly Wine Video Series: A Recap of The Week in Videos
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Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Additional Articles and more
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Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country
WineReview: Tributes to Lailey VineyardFrom the outpouring of emotions and sentiments you would have thought winemaker Derek Barnett himself had passed away, but instead they were the tributes for a winery that had attained world class status (in Ontarians eyes anyway) which has now passed into the night as new ownership took control and have plans to turn the once proud, mainly-dry, table wine house into a place of mass Icewine production.
Lailey was one of the gems in the crown of Ontario wineries, but last week with the final I’s dotted and T’s crossed on the sale, the new owners barred the doors (temporarily) for renovations and netted all that fantastic old vines Lailey fruit (some dating back to the 70’s) for Icewine – to read the details my colleague Rick Van Sickle posted this piece.
As word began to leak out of the happenings at Lailey the outpouring of emotional responses ran from shock to dismay to sadness. Here at MichaelPinkusWineReview we started the #RIPLailey hashtag campaign, where we asked those with memories and thoughts to post them on FaceBook and Twitter along with the hashtag RIPLailey (please feel free to keep the love going with your memories). Below we publish some of the posts that people shared within the first 48 hours of hearing the news – I am sure more will come as news of the sale and transition reaches more people who have a connection to Lailey, if only to have purchased a bottle of wine.
My own private thoughts are of dismay, anger and resignation – which I’ll share at a later date; but to put things into context, Lailey was one of “those” wineries: the one that made a difference, the one that made people believe Ontario was on the right track, the one whose winemaker’s passion showed in every bottle … No doubt that winemaker Derek Barnett will surface elsewhere to share his passion once again – you can’t keep a good winemaker down, or away from the grapes, barrels and tanks he loves – but for now best to remember Lailey’s good old days – and as they say: “Drink ‘em if you got ‘em” – but best you do it slowly.
André J Proulx: Let me take the lead from Michael Pinkus. Lailey Vineyard Winery is especially close to my heart. I am still new to wine writing but Derek always had the time of day for me. He was making some of the best, most age-worthy wines in Ontario. The rumours swirling today are that the fine vines that he was using to make wines are about to be torn up to make room for Icewine. It takes three years before vines can produce usable fruit and it takes a hell of a lot longer to get beautiful concentrated fruit from old vines... in the grand scheme of things Ontario is still a teenager in the wide world of wine. To lose wine and vines of this caliber is a huge blow to wine lovers. My family all lives in Saskatchewan and we don't all get together very often. Last year in a hotel room in Sudbury while bonding over a few glasses of wine we all enjoyed a Magnum of 2010 Canadian Oak Meritage (still way too young). Having Mom, Dad, Gilbert Proulx, Crystal Proulx and my new nephew Tristan all in one room to share that wine is something I will always rememeber ... The second memorable bottle I shared was the last glass of wine I got to share with Anna Warunkiewicz grandmother Carol. We had the whole family together for Thanksgiving. We knew that this was likely the last glass of wine we would get to share with Carol so I brought a bottle Lot 48 Pinot Noir that we used to toast that night.
Krystina Roman: My fav memory, when Derek called me the "Twitter Bitch" back at Savour Stratford years ago. We became close right away. [He is] the grumpy man that made the most amazing wine. Thankfully I've been collecting Derek's wines for a while. My hearts been broken for a while....
Jamie Drummond: Sad times. Whilst I didn't love all of Derek's wines, I look forward to whatever project he hitches his wagon to in the future.
Patricia Smith: Superb Chardonnay. Fantastic wine maker! #RIPLailey
Moira Saganski: My favourite memory of Lailey other than their delicious wine is of David Donna and Derek, such fine people #RIPLailey.
Cynthia Moore: I loved Derek's effort with Syrah, one of the few people in this province who did it justice. Such a shame.
Diane Gauvin: You soooo broke my heart today. Derek *was* Lailey. Now we'll just have to wait a few years (short I hope) to see Derek Barnett's name associated with another set of excellent wines one day... Bill and I wish him well!! #RIPLailey
Paul Dearborn: After fighting and working so hard to change Canada's international reputation as making quality table wines and not just icewine, this is a direction I hate to see Ontario heading. Very saddening news. Lailey has produced some great Chardonnay, Pinot, and Syrah over the years. It's a shame to hear many of these productive vines are being torn out to make icewine for the Asian market. It's a travesty. And it sounds like promises were made during the sale that aren't being kept. Hopefully we get to hear all sides of this story... and hopefully some of this isn't true. But, sadly, I believe it all. I'll never forget visiting the winery during a blizzard, just to pick up the Brickyard Chardonnay that you recommended Michael. Cheers to you and to Derek. #RIPLailey
Andrea Kisser-Quig: Derek Barnett wasn't only part owner, winemaker, the face of the winery ... he was the heart and soul of Lailey. It is impossible to think of the winery and not see his face. Derek's wines were a big part of the reason that I got into the business, and Lailey was really the only winery that I ever really wanted to work (because of Derek and his wines). I learned so much from working with him in the winery and then for a short time, selling his wines in Toronto. He was constantly shoving a glass under my nose and asking my thoughts. Derek has always being a very supportive friend to me ... personally and professionally. Again, I thank him and wish him the very best. I know that when the time is right, he will resurface and we will all anxiously await his next project. The winery as we know it is gone, but a lucky many of us will continue enjoying his labour of love for years to come. #cheersDerekBarnett #RIPLailey
Nadine Dennis: Many of us feel the same way. Horrible that this happened to Derek, and to Lailey, I agree, the Ontario Wine Landscape has been changed and not in a good way.
Monique van den Wildenberg: My heart just broke into a million pieces. I love Lailey wine!
Jamie Paquin: This really sucks!
Janette Scott: Southbrook should get him back!
Marlayna Ruth: This is a huge disappointment. I would go absolutely insane if I was Donna or Derek. Lailey was easily hands down my favourite winery on the lake.
Julia Burke: Wow. I loved those wines.
Trisha Molokach: This is heartbreaking news. I am at a loss.
Shawn McCormick: Holy crap! That is horrible news. So sad that these new owners have no respect for the history of the vines and wines that Derek had mastered into such beauties. I'm glad I over bought on the last two futures releases. Best of luck to Derek and I can't wait to see where he lands.
Kimberly Legros Whetham: I was disheartened by the news. I would travel to Stratford, London, etc ... And there would be Derek sitting there waiting to sell his products. They are going to be sorry to lose him. He will land on his feet and I can't wait to see where he ends up.
Chantal Gareau Smith: This is disheartening! Hopefully this makes others deeply consider who they sell their wineries to in the future (and perhaps agreements about vineyard management are required?).
Eric Leveille: Wow... This is not good
Allison Slute: I'm at a loss for words. So sad.
Allison Vidug: Very sad news. I'll treasure my remaining bottles of Lailey Syrah. Only wish I had more Chardonnay.
Bocci Stone: He is one of the most articulate, passionate, talented and generous people in the industry. A true gentleman in every sense.
Lindsay Puddicombe: Man what a big change for Lailey winery, but for Derek sometimes change is the doors opening for something great. And we all know that you and your winemaking talents define greatness.
Nina Hofer: Very sad news. Thank you Rick and Peter for providing the details. Derek your wines have always been vibrant, exciting, collectible and talk worthy. Your talents will be sought after. Wish you only the best. Thank you for your wonderful vintages and helping put Ontario wines on the global map.
Dave Gillingham: I made lots of great wine back in the days when David and Donna provided grapes to us amateurs, I still have some 15 year old Lailey Merlot that is great!
TankhopperClark: Sad news, don't like the new direction of Lailey.
Larry Horne: We used to stay at the B&B there in the 90's, David would leave a bottle of barrel treated Auxerois in the room, was my first experience with that grape.
Mike Fish: Sad day for #VQA, one of our best dies at the hands of foreign interest. #RIPLailey U will b forever missed.
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy WinesThe Last Wine I Tasted at Lailey with Derek Barnett …
Lailey 2014 Sauvignon Blanc - $20.00 (W)
www.laileyvineyard.com
So after tasting three bottles of this Sauvignon Blanc I am prepared to proclaim it the best Sauvignon Blanc I have tasted from Ontario grapes – winemaker Derek Barnett says “2014 was a beautiful year for Sauvignon Blanc” and so he set it in neutral barrels for 5 months. Nose is complex and inviting: grapefruit cocktail, pineapple rind, a little tropicality with hints of grassiness in the background. Palate follows closely to the nose but with such a beautiful mouth presence and an amazingly long finish of pink grapefruit – this is one we’ll be enjoying all summer long chez-moi, until the bottles and the winery runs out. Price: $20.00 – Rating: **** ½
This Week’s Other Choice Wines …
Calamus 2012 Meritage - $32.00 (W)
www.calamuswines.com
The usual three grapes go into this puppy, but heavily dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon at 58% followed by Merlot and Franc at 33% and 9% respectively. The wine spent 21 months in oak, one-third of which was new but it hardly shows any of the wood character at all … time to talk fruit: cassis, black cherry dominate, palate is lush adding vanilla, cocoa and a hint of leather to the ever-present fruit. This is a wine you could enjoy now but also has good potential for the future (now – 2020). Price: $32.00 – Rating: ****+
Daniel Lenko 2012 Merlot-Cabernet - $39.95 (W)
www.daniellenko.com
A blend of 75/25 Merlot to Cabernet Franc that brings juicy blue and red fruit to the fore then introduces them all to its smoky, tobacco and cherry partners … this is very drinkable and tasty. Price: $39.95 – Rating: ****
Niagara College 2012 Merlot, Dean’s List - $28.00 (W)
www.niagaracollegewine.ca
22 months in oak has brought forth yet another delightful Merlot from the 2012 vintage. Aromas are steeped in fruit a la sweet blueberry, cherry and raspberry followed up with a little vanilla. On the palate you’ll find that sweet fruit parade carries on but adds a spicy element to balance it: blueberry, fresh raspberry, cherry – all spiced up just right with the added element of an oak seam that runs right down the middle. If this is what the college is teaching our future winemakers then our industry looks bright indeed. Price: $28.00 – Rating: ****
Strewn 2012 Strewn Three, Terroir - $38.00 (W)
www.strewnwinery.com
A best barrel (that play well together) selection of 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 24% Cabernet Franc that has a lot going for it. The tobacco of the Franc plays well with the licorice and chocolate of the Sauvignon while the fruit forwardness of the Merlot balances both out … Tannins start off rather aggressive but manage to end up more laid-back as everybody comes to the mouth-party to have a good time. Price: $38.00 – Rating: ****+
Two Sisters 2013 Riesling - $24.00 (W)
www.twosistersvineyards.com
Fruit for this wine comes from the Wismer ‘Foxcroft’ Vineyard and is made in 100% stainless steel (no barrel thank goodness). Aromas of peach, pear, apricot and wet stone … palate proves to be a juicy affair full of white fruit and mineral backing – think Bosc pear and green apple with a wet stone component. Price: $24.00 – Rating: ****
Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line)
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Talbott 2013 Logan Chardonnay
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