On the Road with the Grape Guy

On the Road with the Grape Guy is a on-going feature that follows me from event to event ... I post my thoughts, feelings and reviews of what happened and what I tasted ... basically it is here that I review the events I attend and the things that thrilled me.

Abruzzo Grand Tasting 2023

20 Dec 2023

 

(June 2023) … Abruzzo is an area well-suited for wine. It sits on the Adriatic side of Italy and it’s growing region lies between the sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella “massifs” (mountains). This allows for diurnal temperature fluctuation, and that in turn helps the grapes mature in sugar and retain acidity for balance.

Rock WallBy the Numbers … There are 6000 producers, 35 co-operatives and 250+ wineries producing 3.4 million hectolitres and covering the area with 33,000 vines.

Montepulciano (red) is the superstar grape of the region, followed by Trebbiano (white) – there are also pockets of Pecorino, Cococciola, Montanico and Passerina. For my money, Pecorino is the all-star white, many of the best pale wines I tried were made from this variety.

Cerasuolo is the another staple from the area, sometimes described as a light red; this wine is the “rosé” of the region and is as distinctive as the name, which means cherry – a nod to both the colour and flavours within the wine.

Abruzzo is broken down into four main provinces: Chieti, which has 83% of the vines and is the largest wine producing area. Pescara makes up another 10%, Teramo 6% and L’Aquila is said to have the remainder (less than 1%).

The wines of the Grand Tasting are below – I did not taste everything in the room – I started with rosé (Cerasuolo) and then the rest of the time I tasted what struck my fancy, finding some real gems along the way. I also talk about my experience in the region on the podcast (Two Guys Talking Wine) wines are presented below in alphabetical order.

... THE WINES ... Me in Abruzzo

Cantina Valle Tritàna 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Aufinum
(Terre De L'aquila) ... (*** ½)
Cirelli 2022 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC La Collina Biologica
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Colle Moro 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP Sessantesimo
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Collefrisio 2015 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Semis
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****+)
Contesa 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Terre Dei Vestini Riserva Chiedi Alla Polvere
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Contesa 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½)
Crea Vini 2017 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva Polibio
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Eredi Legonziano 2020 Abruzzo Spumante DOC Metodo Classico
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****)
Famiglia De Cerchio 2020 Villamagna DOC
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Famiglia De Cerchio 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Colle Maggio
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Fattoria Nicodemi 2016 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Neromoro
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Fosso Corno 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½)
Fosso Corno 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Mayro
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Fosso Corno 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Aires
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½)
Down the Road Idi Di Marzo 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Amarne
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Idi Di Marzo 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Marchesi De’ Cordano 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Aida
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Mazzarosa 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Vere Novo
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Nae 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Malamore
(Colline Teramane) ... (****+)
Nae 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC ‘968
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Nic Tartaglia 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (****)
Nic Tartaglia 2022 Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½)
Piandimare 2017 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Maja
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****+)
Piandimare 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Villamagna
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****)
Piandimare 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Blue Label
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
San Nicola 2017 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Pollutro Oro
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****)
San Nicola 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Don Venanzio
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Talamonti 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Tre Saggi Barrels by the Mountain
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (****)
Tenuta I Fauri 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Ottobre Rosso
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Tenuta Tre Gemme 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Renascenzia
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Tenuta Ulisse 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP Nativae
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Tenuta Ulisse 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP Amaranta
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Tenuta Ulisse 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP Ulisse
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Tenuta Ulisse 2022 IGP Terre Di Chieti Pecorino Ulisse
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****+)
Terre D’erce 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP La Paurosa
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Terre D’erce 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Luigi Sabatini
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Tocco 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Enisio
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (****)
Tocco 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Bio Capostazione
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½)
Baby Grapes Valle Reale 2020 Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC Vigneto Di Popoli
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Valle Reale 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Vigneto Sant’eusanio
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (****+)
Valle Reale 2022 Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC Valle Reale
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½)
Valle Reale 2022 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Valle Reale
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Vignamadre - Famiglia Di Carlo 2017 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Capo Le Vigne
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****)
Vignamadre - Famiglia Di Carlo 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Becco Reale
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)

 

Day One of Tastings - Montefalco 2023

14 Dec 2023

(April 2023) … I absolutely love the way the PR company (Miriade & Partners) puts these days of Montefalco together. Day one is a choice between a half dozen pre-set schedules, which include lunch and dinner. In my opinion, day one should be easy – you’ve just arrived and it is time to get your bearings in a new locale. They make it easy and should be commended. Below are the list of impressive wines tasted (and by extension the places I visited) during this pre-set visit.

Wineries: Lungarotti, Bocale, Alzatura, Terre di San Felice and Tabarrini.

Lungarotti BarrelLungarotti 2021 Il Bio
(Sagrantino)
This is supposed to be a younger, fresher version of Sagrantino. Notes of cough drop along with black and blue berry; good acidity but still has some aggressiveness of tannins.  (*** ½)

Lungarotti (Rubesco) 2018 Vigna Monticchio Riserva (Torgiano)    
(Sangiovese)
From the Torgiano area, and considered Lungarotti’s most important wine overall in their portfolio. Single vineyard located in the highest of the region: 15 hectares, 12 planted. Elegant and sour-cranberry fruit with nice spice from the fruit and the wood.  (****+)

Lungarotti 2017 Passito    
(Sagrantino)
Figs and dates soaked in spiced-honey.  (*** ½+)

Lungarotti 2018 San Giorgio (Super Umbrian)
(50 / 50 - Cabernet Sauvignon – Sangiovese)
This wine is aged in French oak: darker fruit with an elegant structure and well developed flavours.  (****)

 


Bocale 2022 Spoletino
(Trebbiano Spoletini)
Nice and fresh with grapefruit and pineapple notes plus there’s a little peach pit on the finish. Gets better with each sip.  (****)

Bocale 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino Bocale Welcome
(Sagrantino)
Very approachable and tasty with smoky, cocoa, blackberry, cassis and a hint of leather; plus other dark fruits swing in and out with each sip. Some licorice and subtle dark candy undertones also make an appearance.  (****+)

Bocale 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino - Ennio
(Sagrantino) - limited edition
Not only is this wine aged in wood for two years, but most of the work (punch downs, etc.) are done by current owner’s (Valentino) father (Ennio) – which is from whom the wine takes its name. Blackberry and black smoke that packs quite the tannin punch – this one needs time and lots of it.  (****)

Bocale 2020 Montefalco Rosso
(70% Sangiovese / 15% Merlot / 10% Sagrantino / 5% Colorino)
Nice red fruit notes with smoke, cassis and mocha all playing a role.  (****)


Alzatura WhiteTenuta Alzatura 2020 Biano - Aria di Casa
(Trebbiano Spoletini)
Although the white wine spends 6 months in a mix of new (30%) and older (70%) “larger” oak; it has a lovely lightness and freshness with some salty qualities; delicate notes of peach with pineapple on the nose.  (****)


Terre di San Felice 2022 Trebbiano Spoletino
(Trebbiano Spoletini)
This winery started in 2010 and produces some 8-to-9000 bottles per year. This Spoletini is salty with notes of yellow grapefruit pith.  (*** ½)

Terre di San Felice 2020 Montefalco Rosso
(65% Sangiovese / 25% Merlot / 10% Sagrantino)
Quite sippable and approachable with some tannin bite.  (*** ½+)

Terre di San Felice 2018 Montefalco Rosso Riserva
(65% Sangiovese / 20% Merlot / 15% Sagrantino)
See note above, the similarities suggest a house-style. Adds in licorice and mocha to the mix, which is significantly smokier than its predecessor.  (*** ½)

Terre di San Felice 2019 Montefalco Rosso
(Sagrantino)
Cocoa powder and smoke with blackberry tannins and blueberry grit - tannins are aggressive, but I've had worse.  (*** ½+)

Terre di San Felice 2019 Sagrantino Vinum Dei Vinum Dei
(Sagrantino)
A small portion is aged in Anfor (12), Tonneau (12) and then all goes into bottle (4) minimum (months) – all numbers reported are in months. The fruit is very forward on sip one, while the tannins show up on sip 3, dry and dense.  (****+)

Terre di San Felice 2019 Passito
(Sagrantino)
Smooth and silky with an herbal core that makes it much more interesting and seems to keep it from being too sweet; one of the nicest Passitos tasted through the entire trip.  (****+)

 


Tabarrini 2018 Camp alla Cerqua    
(Sagrantino)
Tabarrini is all about the single vineyard experience of Sagrantino, forgoing the idea of Riserva – this makes the wine much more interesting: Juicy and fruit forward with good acidity and tannin punch.  (****+)

Tabarrini 2018 Colle Grimaldesco
(Sagrantino)
Red fruit dominated, nice acidity, long finish with some big alcohol detected on both the nose and palate – but, it’s still a delicious wine.  (****)

Tabarrini 2018 Colle alle Macchie
(Sagrantino)
Dusty, acidic, tannins are there, but well managed, there's a nice richness to this wine.  (****)

Tabarrini 2019 Il Bisbetico Domato
(Sagrantino)
This is the newest “cru” for Tabarrini, it spends 12 months on the skins, 2 years in wooden barrels and a long time aging in bottle. Grapes come from a portion of the vineyard used for the Colle alle Macchie. This is to be the fourth “cru” from the winery, and there is something about it we can’t be told right away (one day). This is a very pretty and floral wine with dusty and smoky notes, plus blackberry and cassis. Round finish. Very mouth pleasing.  (****+)

 

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