Kevin Panagapka created two Chardonnays in 2013: a Niagara-on-the-Lake version from Wismer and a Beamsville Bench version from the Aberdeen Road Vineyard, and while Wismer is a lean, mineral driven affair Aberdeen is the creamy more luxurious of the Chardonnays. 18 months in French oak, 30% of which was new, and using indigenous yeast (aka: wild) for fermentation; the wine also went through full malolactic fermentation: which is where that creaminess comes from. Creamy, buttery, sweet vanilla and mouth-filling from beginning to end with tropical fruit and apple sauce notes … but before this gets too blousy there’s a good seam of acidity that sweeps in and keeps things from getting too out of hand. Price: $30.00 – Rating: ****+