It’s not easy to say goodbye, but it’s probably easier when the guy isn’t going very far. Bernard Hickin, chief winemaker of Jacob’s Creek for 40 years, stepped down to some fanfare in the form of this wine, made lovingly by his successor Ben Bryant. This ode to Bernard is 63% Shiraz with only 1200 bottles made and labelled with the commemorative branding. And what a way to go out, it’s a wine of great complexity and layers with plum, cherry, vanilla, raspberry, cranberry and smoky notes, plus a whole lot more; finish has a lovely chocolate, mocha, cigar-box note with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg. It’s a fittingly fond farewell to an icon. Rating: ****+