Ontario Reviews

Cave Spring 2006 Riesling “Dolomite”
Believe it or not there are very few, if any, wines in Niagara named for the soil the grapes are grown in. Sure you can find plenty of wines named for the vineyard – but soil seems to take a backseat; funny considering the hot word these days is ‘terroir’. With that in mind, Cave Spring brings us their “Dolomite” Riesling, named for the layer of dolomite (mineral found naturally in the soil, aka: dolomite limestone or magnesian limestone) the grapes grow in on the Niagara Escarpment. This is a beautiful terroir-driven wine right from the get-go. The nose shows off its complexity with scents like talc, apples and peaches (heavy on the peaches) coming to the fore – there’s even a faint hint of petrol. The taste digs even deeper, with a wet-stone like minerality and plenty of white peach. Great acidity, a long lingering finish and just a touch of sweetness could see this wine ageing gracefully over the next decade (maybe more); but will you have the will-power or the patience to keep it that long … I seriously doubt it – it’s just so tasty. With only 960 cases made, and restaurants buying it up like crazy, this rarity won’t be around for long.
Niagara Peninsula
at the winery and thru WineryToHome
(Re-Tasted July 2011) ... Seems I have sipped on this wine in this column before (January 2010) and I still can revisit this wine a few more times in years to come and I'm thrilled by that because this is a classic: the first bottling of this soil specific Riesling by one of the preeminent Riesling producers of Niagara. This wine is still a beauty with smells of apple, mineral and apricot on a soft pillow of petrol that just gently wafts through without being intrusive. On the palate there is mineral and apple with some spiced peach syrup and another hint at some petrol to carry it along to the finish, it really is just a soft titch. While the finish is lime based with some excellent length ... still hold up beautifully, can't wait to open the next bottle.

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