Back in 2002, Chateau des Charmes made my favourite version of their now legendary Gamay Noir ‘Droit’. I think that wine is about to be overshadowed by the 2007 version. Much has been said about the 2007 vintage in Ontario – words and phrases that include “best ever” have been used to describe it … and with wines like this coming out of cellars across the province there’s no wonder. I’m going to tell you two things about this wine you might not believe. 1) the wine is unoaked and 2) the wine was left on the skins for 14 days. I tell you this because the smells and flavours smell and taste oak influenced and the colour is deep and dark. The nose is full of cherry and raspberry – typical for Gamay, but there is also a touch of cinnamon, clove and allspice. The palate is big, with ripe tannins, big cherry flavours, peppery nuances, and a black cherry finish with great acidity that keeps you coming back for more. Round and soft, yet still with a big presence in the mouth, if that is at all possible to wrap your head around. This might be an indelicate description but I heard it and liked it, so I’m going to use it here: “this is one kick-ass wine”. Price: $16.95