- Category: Wine Reviews
(March 2022) ... This vertical tasting is the first of its kind, ever, and looked at Vin Santo from Boscarelli from 2002 to 2011 with some interesting changes in their process along the way.
The first Vin Santo created by Boscarelli was in 1988; they made 1000 bottles, it was called "Famille" and they deemed they would make one of these types of every 3 to 4 years (that dropped by the wayside). They also implemented wild fermentation in the making. There are no bottles of the 1998 wine left at the winery.
For our purposes, the 2002 / 2003 / 2004 / 2005 / 2007 were all classic Vin Santo wines made from all white grapes. The 2009 / 2010 / 2011 we're dubbed "Occhio di Pernice", translate to Eye of Partridge, because they had a slightly pink color. This was because they added red grapes into the blend. The reason: they were replanting the vineyard of Sangiovese and they had plenty of red grapes, but not enough white grapes. The good news is that in 2017 a new vineyard has been acquired, with enough white grapes within it they will have enough now to return the Vin Santo to on all white grape production.
Brownish color, pruney on the nose, palate shows burnt caramel but with good acidity.
Nice richness and thickness in the mouth; still lots of freshness. There are notes of grapefruit along with caramel and butterscotch.
Here there seems to be a little VA kicking about and the palate comes across thinner and less concentrated.
The acidity in the 2005 is quite prominent; butterscotch shows up, hints of mocha and even a slight caramelburnt-esque finish. Interesting and intriguing wine.
Here it's the lack of acidity that’s most striking, in fact, I found it a touch cloying, but with some spice notes, but not enough to rescue it. I was a big fan.
2009 Famille, Occhio di Pernice
Thick, rich and opulent; the acidity seems to be lower, but not at the level of the 2007... The color is darker than the others, but there's also more complexity peeking through.
2010 Famille, Occhio di Pernice
Good acidity and concentration with notes of sweet fruit: apricot, caramel and even a coffee / latte note ... Has a lovely smooth entry to the mouth, but it's that finish that kicks it up a notch.
2011 Famille, Occhio di Pernice
This just released version is fresh and you can feel the acidity and even some tannins. Quite the complexity here, less caramel and more caramelized-fruits from the white and yellow spectrum ... There's even a note of fennel, making it very interesting and quite enjoyable.