Reviews

Hillebrand 2006 Wild Ferment Chardonnay
Rub-a-Dub-Dub three men in a tub, the butcher, the baker, and the winemaker … why not, he’d be more useful than a guy who makes candles. Anyway not sure why I thought of that while writing this review, maybe it’s because I don’t think anyone has started a wine review with a nursery rhyme and I don’t think anyone has commercially marketed a wild ferment wine in Ontario. I’m sure our winemakers have tried wild fermentation, but nothing I am aware of has been put on shelves, until now. Darryl Brooker, winemaker, seems almost like a renegade-maverick with this one … Limited to a one barrel production (47 cases), this barrel spontaneously combusted (began to ferment) without inoculation from any cultivated yeast; so Darryl tucked it into a corner and monitored it (why not, with the size of Hillebrand’s operation who’s gonna miss one lonely barrel) … and thank goodness he did, because this Chard is amazing in both smell and taste. Sure you get the buttery and vanilla, but there’s also pineapple core, melon rind, and an asparagus/romain lettuce note. This bit of greenery comes through in the mouth in the form of fresh, crisp iceberg lettuce, but the vegetation does not detract from the other flavours: vanilla, butter, cinnamon, an array of spices and a caramel/toffee afterglow … It’s like a light repast in a glass, including dessert. It’s been soft released at the retail level at the winery and is for sale for a very limited time, so make your phone call or your pilgrimage now to get your hands on one … it’s well worth it.
2006
White
Chardonnay
0
$35
Canada
Ontario
Niagara Peninsula
at the winery only
http://www.hillebrand.com
2011-06-27

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