Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #235

Newsletter #235 - The Great Cork Debate

06 Aug 2014

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OntarioWineReview Newsletter 235

August 2014

OntarioWineReview: The Great Cork Debate
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

OntarioWineReview: The Great Cork Debate

Two weeks ago I got myself into a little hot water with the following post I wrote about a vertical tasting I did with a popular Washington state winery’s signature wine that makes its way to Ontario regularly … it started like this:

“I have never been so pissed off in my life, and I have had my moments.

I invited a few friends over to enjoy a vertical tasting of your wines, your CMS to be specific - one of my friends tried one once and hasn't shut up about it, so I wanted to really show off with my (pseudo) vertical: 2002-2006 (minus the '04). But what the heck are you thinking sealing this beautiful blend: Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah (CMS) with a plastic cork; I was totally shocked and appalled by this finding. And there was nary a mention of this type of closure on your front or back label - imagine my shock when I pull off the capsule on vintage after vintage to see the plastic beneath ...” (read the rest here)

The discussion on Twitter began simple enough, between Hedges and I about their wines and the closure they use (synthetic). They offered to have me down to the winery to try the wines again – and barring that, offered to ship out replacement bottles (that offer was quickly rescinded and removed from the conversation once I offered to assemble a panel of other writers to also taste and evaluate the wines – subsequent emails to Hedges on the subject have also gone unanswered). Without getting into too much detail, I was then rebuked by a fellow Canadian writer, who resides in Montreal, and a variety of social media misfits for my transgression of holding “entry-level” wines for too long and expecting too much:

“Why is this even a conversation? Aging under $20 domestic wine is laughable,” one person said [Ed. Note: “domestic” here means American). Though I would disagree with that notion, you haven’t lived until you pop the cork on a “cheap” aged wine and realized that your $6 investment of 10 years ago has really paid off – and that you’re kicking yourself for not having bought more. That’s certainly a better feeling than realizing your $25 investment 10 years ago has turned to vinegar. Both are feelings that anyone with a wine cellar has had … and not one you can really share in 140 characters or less (on Twitter).

By the winery’s own Tweeting admission: “Many of the CMS vintages are great for 20 years …” What I take the winery to be inferring is many can, just my particular four vintages could not (2002, 2003, 2005 and 2006) – am I an unlucky bastard or what?

The question I brought up in my post was why use a plastic cork in a knowingly ageable wine? First generation plastic, self-admitted by one of the leading synthetic manufacturer’s in the US, is for drink-now wines (at least within 3-4 years maximum); yet the Washington based Hedges is still claiming the possibility of 20 years. Now I am aware that better technology in synthetic is currently being studied and marketed to preserve bottles longer, but the fact still remains that a bottle closed in 2002 and opened in 2014 wasn’t given proper opportunity to age 5 years, let alone 20, based solely on choice of closure by the wine makers. But knowing what they know now about the older synthetics should not Hedges change their tune on their older bottles? Why stick by the 20 year number? It would be more appropriate to say: ‘you’d be very lucky for 20 years, or even 10, we recommend a maximum of 5 years.’

The Montreal-based writer, who took me to task, said that he did not approve of my anti-synthetic stance and said that I blamed the producer for a choice they made 12 years ago “as if they knew it would fail” over the long haul. He argued that taking into account the thinking of the time: that synthetic would do a better job and eliminate dreaded cork taint (TCA), I should give the producer a break. I’ll agree that maybe it is a little unfair of me to blame them for a decision they made 12 years ago; but what’s their excuse today? My demand NOW is to know what is sealing my bottles today.

A well-known and award winning winery here in Ontario used synthetic for their 2002-2005 vintage wines and consider it now to be “one of their worst mistakes ever”, once they realized their poor ageing ability. I recently dumped a number of their wines down the drain after discovering, and tasting, the wines I had in my cellar, sealed synthetically, and their marketing manager says he has done the very same with what he had considered, at the time of bottling, “some beautiful wines”. A popular, longtime wine writer and friend confided that upon noticing that this winery had moved to the synthetic closure said “my opinion of their wines was tainted”.

These are just two examples of industry insiders, from two sides of the industry (writing and marketing – each over 15 years in the business) knowingly making the decision against synthetic for long-term aging. So I know I’m not alone in my thinking; and where there is two in such close vicinity that means there are plenty more of us around the world.

Am I railing against plastic cork and wish to see its demise? Certainly not. I have travelled to Raleigh, North Carolina, met some of the nicest people involved with the making of, distributing of and the technology behind synthetics … they believe in their product, believe they are making strides to better their product and even admit to its limitations (when pushed). They have converts around the world. Are the closure of choice for millions upon millions of bottles of wine. And continue to improve their product each and every year. Plus, those people sure know how to have a good time – the food was amazing (but then again I do love a good BBQ).

All I’m really asking is that producers tell us that they have used a synthetic cork to seal their wines; either by use of a clear capsule or a notation on the bottle: “sealed under synthetic cork” – that way in years to come the consumer is not shocked and dismayed that their bottle didn’t last the 5+ years they were expecting. Give the consumer the choice of what to do with their bottle: hold or drink – at least knowing the inherent risk they are taking by aging that wine with the synthetic closure. My writer friend wants to take it a step further: “Any wine with plastic closure should have a clear plastic capsule ... and a best-before date on it.” … while I think that’s a good idea I won’t go that far as to advocate the best before date (on Tetra-Pak yes; on synthetic? The jury is still out).

But what has been your experience with synthetics? Are you in favour or avoid those wines like the plague? I can clearly recall taking back 5 bottles of Vouvray after seeing the plastic closure under the capsule. Where do your preferences lie when it comes to the closure on your wine? The debate rages and the conclusion are only being made murkier. Have your say on synthetic closures on the online poll.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:New and Noteworthy Wines

Creekside 2011 The Trad, Reserve - $28.95 (W)
www.creeksidewine.com
Sparkling wine is all the rage these days, everybody’s making it, I think I caught my cat refermenting a demi-john in my basement the other day. But seriously, sparkling seems to be the cat’s meow (no pun intended), but just because you can doesn’t always mean you should. The good news here is that Creekside can and should be making bubbles. This single vineyard sparkler from their Queenston Road Vineyard is 56% Pinot Noir, 44% Chardonnay aged 2 years in bottle – and as the name suggests, all done in the traditional way. Fresh and fruity with that bready-biscuitness bubble-heads love … great acidity that causes a pucker with lemon and green apple on the finish. 120 cases were made with a three-year-plus version coming soon. Can’t wait. Price: $28.95 – Rating: ****+

Hillebrand 2012 Trius Red - $22.75 (W, L)
www.truiswines.com
Touted as the “best Trius Red” winemaker Craig McDonald has ever made (in all the literature) is a bit of a cheat because he’s only been there a few years, but let’s face facts, this is a beauty of a red wine from the iconic Trius Red line and might be one of the best ever. A blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon (47% - which is a rarity itself) with Cabernet Franc (39%) and Merlot (at a mere 14%) – a 50/50 barrel split of French and American oak with 6 months separately aged then another 6 months together. Nose is black cherry with loads of cocoa and chocolate to lure one into that first sip. Palate is juicy with cassis, blackberry and other dark fruit notes pairing it all up with cocoa, smoke and vanilla … then there’s that great seam of acidity that balances it all out. Age a decade for sure, but enjoy one or two along the way, as this should evolve beautifully. Price: $22.95 – Rating: **** ½

Huff Estates 2013 Rosé - $19.00 (W)
www.huffestates.com
Not since the very first vintage of this wine back in 2006 has winemaker Frederic Picard been able to match the purity of Sauvignon Blanc freshness that seems to permeate this wine. Nose is grassy and pink grapefruit, which follows into the mouth with grapefruit and lime pith keeping it dry along with a zesty finish worthy of a summer day on the patio. The real surprise here is that not a drop of Sauvignon Blanc is used, it’s purely 100% Cabernet Franc … Incredible. How does he do that? Price: $19.00 – Rating: ****+

Niagara College 2011 Cabernet Franc, Dean’s List - $27.95 (W)
www.niagaracollegewine.ca
The Dean’s List name here comes from the report card label that adorns the front of this bottle, signed by Canada’s father of wine writing Tony Aspler (who is now a grandfather, literally, so do we have to change the moniker?). Anyway, Tony’s note says, “A good effort in a difficult vintage” and I would agree. Nose of raspberry, tobacco and cherry leads to a palate of strawberry, cherry and cigar box with a lively spiced finish that nips at the tongue, you’ll also find some balancing acidity. Not for long term aging but definitely a wine to enjoy in the short term. Price: $27.95 – Rating: ****+

The Old Third 2011 Pinot Noir, Sparkling – A la Volee - $49.95 (W)
www.theoldthird.com
Nothing the boys do at the Old Third comes without a story: “A la Volee” means ‘to let fly’ … according to lore, when you hand riddle and disgorge sparkling wine one of the more traditional ways to get rid of the yeast trapped in the bottle is through an arcing arm movement that causes the yeast-plug to fly off all with minimal loss of wine. This small production sparkler is part one of a three part disgorgement. This is the “after 18 months” edition, next up will be an “after 30 months” version and then there’s a will-see approach will be adopted for the final disgorgement (part #3). Right now they have developed a beautiful biscuit, bready note with apple at its core. Very dry and with great acidity. Price: $49.95 – Rating: ****+

Stanners 2012 Chardonnay - $25.00 (W)
www.stannersvineyard.ca
Like a lot of new wineries in Prince Edward County Stanners is forced to use Niagara fruit. Forced seems like too harsh a word I guess, let’s try required? Or Needs? Anyway the reason is as much vineyard age as it is cash flow … it takes three years for vines to come on line to make decent wine and the harsher climate of the County can play havoc on your vines. The Chardonnay for this wine comes from the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation of Niagara. There’s a nice buttery-vanilla aspect to the wine with hints of peach and a lemon curd finish, which can be attributed to half the wine being aged in tank and the other half for a year in barrel. Price: $25.00 – Rating: ****

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Regular Weekly Videos
Video #94 – Exultet 2012 The Blessed Chardonnay
Video #95 - 13th Street 2012 Gamay Noir

Sparkling Celebration Week (August 4-10, 2014):
Monday - Coyote's Run 2011 Sparkling Chardonnay
Tuesday - Creekside 2011 The Trad
Wednesday - Hinterland 2013 Borealis
Thursday - KEW Vineyards 2011 Blanc de Noir
Watch for videos on Friday, Saturday and Sunday
Subscribe here to catch all the videos

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Long Weekend Drinks
Celebrations this Summer? I Have the Bubbles

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Churchill Cellars Portfolio Tasting

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog): the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted)
Taste it Again: Hillebrand 2009 Trius Sauvignon Blanc
Taste it Again: Coyote's Run 2006 Red Paw Pinot Noir

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
August 2nd missed due to travel
August 16 - coming soon

Where I'll be: See the Grape Guy Live!

20th Annual EPIC Vintage Tasting at Muscedere Vineyards: Join The EPIC Wineries Sunday August 10th from 1pm – 5pm at Muscedere Vineyards to celebrate the 20th Annual Vintage Tasting! Taste the best wine and food from the LENS region, along with tasting & pairing seminars and beautiful music, all set amid a stunning outdoor setting at Muscedere Vineyards. This casual garden party style event is sure to please everyone from the casual wine sipper to the experienced Master Taster! Details here.

Where I'll Be: See the Grape Guy Live!

Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

Wine Country's Favourite Summer Festival is Back! ... Trius Blues: August 9, 2014. Trius Blues at the Winery has been bringing premier Canadian talent to Niagara's wine country for 25 years. This year marks their 25th anniversary. Choose from a variety of ticket options and experiences that include Vineyard Lawn Seating, Trius Red Lounge, Trius Winery Restaurant Patio Seating and Backstage Pass. Get your tickets and find more info here.

NJF – Niagara Jazz Festival - August 22 – 24 at various venues around the region … check out all the details here.

Red White & Blues in the County is back … Fans of Canadian blues will be treated to a fantastic late summer weekend at four of the most picturesque Prince Edward County Winery Estates; featuring multi-Award-winning performers such as Soulstack, Steve Strongman, Jack de Keyzer and Al Lerman. It all begin September 12 and runs to the 14. See all the details right here.

Niagara Jazz Festival Launch Party @ Stratus - Friday August 22: Featuring the Brownman Electryc Trio and the Alistair Robertson Quartet. Sip, munch and groove with Stratus. Doors open at 6:30 pm. Admission includes one glass of wine. Tickets $35. Buy your way in here.

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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