Newsletter #257 - Bankrupt or Bad Judgment

30 Jun 2015

MichaelPinkusWineReview Newsletter #257

            June 2015

  • WineReview: Bankrupt or Bad Judgment

  • Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wine

  • Weekly Wine Video Series:  A Recap of The Week in Videos

  • Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Additional Articles and more

  • Wine Event Spotlight:  See What's Going on in Wine Country


WineReview:  Bankrupt or Bad Judgment

Has the Wine Council of Ontario (WCO) lost its collective mind? Or have they just given up on their home province?  And what the heck am I talking about now?

Not sure you heard, but earlier this year the WCO went to ProWein, a trade and industry show in Germany to promote Ontario wine … in Germany?  Don’t they already have Riesling and Pinot Noir there?

If you read between the lines of both what the LCBO and industry report Ontario has only about a 6% hold on their domestic market (that’s VQA-only folks – not the ICB’s, International Canadian Blends) with its trip to Germany it would seem the WCO has given up on winning over Ontarians and has moved onto other pastures that might be receptive to the wines of Ontario.  Operative word here is “might”, I would also say “greener pastures” but I’m not sure promoting Ontario wines outside of Ontario (where we’ve barely tapped the market) is really the wisest move … especially in a cold climate region that has its own wines.  Years ago there was an initiative to the UK to promote Ontario, and then Canadian, Chardonnay – now that made sense: 1) the most influential wine media still resides in Britain and 2) they don’t have their own thriving wine industry – which has always helped make them some of the most unbiased critics of the wine world.

While the trip was taking place, I checked the Facebook page of Coyote’s Run Winery owner, Jeff Aubry, who went on the mission to ProWein, and why not, Germany is a beautiful country (I’d go back in a heartbeat), he posted these approximate stats of the amount of wine being featured.  First he called it a “Wine Orgy” then went on to break it down: “5600 suppliers, each with [about] 8 wines equals 45,000 wines”.  And in that sea of fermented grapes the WCO expects Ontario to stand out – at an unfocused event?  Really?

It makes me sad to say that I think the WCO seems to be bankrupt of ideas – or, as one winemaker told me: “they’re just throwing shit at the wall to see what fits” (a mixed metaphor but I think we all get the picture). If this is what the leadership of the Wine Council has up their sleeve as some kind of brilliant marketing plans they best pack up shop and just go into the printing business – the winery map is the only reason they have the membership they do, that thing is pure gold to wine consumers who tour the regions (though look out, Prince Edward County has proven you don’t need the WCO to put out a great comprehensive map).

I’m not going to tell the WCO how to do their job, but from the outside looking in I can tell you they do the job they have been tasked with extremely poorly and if wineries in the province were smart they would voice their displeasure at initiatives like this jaunt to ProWein – I have no doubt the WCO came back and told everyone it was a great success; but when you don’t have a handle on your own market how do you expect to make a splash in another?  I also hate to say, if the answer to the Ontario wine industry’s woes is, as the current incarnation of the WCO would have us believe – selling wine outside the country, best the wineries stick with the LCBO, at least there they get a month of recognition in their own province.


Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  New and Noteworthy Wines
 

Calamus 2012 Merlot - $27.00 (W)
www.calamuswines.com
Hello Merlot … sadly many will not be saying that phrase too much longer in Ontario and in fact will be saying goodbye to the grape over the coming years due to its lack of winter-hardiness and the crazy-cold winters we have been having.  These particular vines, planted in 2000, may or may not be there soon, but the fruits of their labour are in evidence here in the bottle: blueberry skin, baker’s cocoa along with some tannin bite and balancing acidity … but this wine needs time to reach its full potential, so buy now but give it at least a couple of years before twisting the cap.  Price: $27.00 – Rating: ****+

Closson Chase 2013 Chardonnay, The Brock - $22.95 (W)
www.clossonchase.com
Annually the folks at Closson Chase take some of their own vineyard fruit and create a restaurant friendly (price-wise) offering called “The Loyalist”, but this year they took some Niagara fruit instead and craft something they call, “The Brock” to take The Loyalist’s place … capeesh? This really is a steal for Chard-lovers that can put their hands on a few bottles. Vanilla, buttery and creamy with apple puree, spiced pear and really good acidity.  Price: $22.95 – Rating: ****+

Featherstone 2013 Cabernet Franc - $17.95 (W)
www.featherstonewinery.ca
This Franc has been picked up by the LCBO’s Vintages Essentials program and I’m not surprised.  Featherstone has consistently and I do mean year-after-year – made really enjoyable Franc at a steal of a price.  Nose on the 2013 version is pretty spot on Franc with raspberry and tobacco aromas.  Palate shows cigar box along with raspberry and strawberry fruit and backed by subtle tannins.  This year’s version isn’t a blockbuster, but it’s definitely worth the investment to drink around the BBQ for the next few years.  Price: $17.95 – Rating: ****

Lailey 2013 Syrah, Barrel Select - $35.00 (W)
www.laileyvineyard.com
Winemaker Derek Barnett decided to play around with his signature Syrah this year creating a Barrel Select version that uses the same clones and same winemaking techniques and even comes from the same sub-appellation as his usual popular bottling – but instead of mixing bought fruit and estate fruit made this a 6-barrel estate only version – and what a coup.  Nose is mellow, meaty and white-peppery; palate has a lovely raspberry tone to it along with white pepper, strawberry and red currant … but it’s the pepper aspect here that is truly the star.  Try the two wines side-by-side for a revelation in terroir versus blending.  Price: $35.00 – Rating: ****+

Niagara College 2012 Cabernet Franc, Dean’s List Desicatto - $48.00 (W)
www.niagaracollegewine.ca
I’m not sure whether to praise or deride the practice of the dried grape that seems to have swept thru Ontario, especially in a vintage like 2012 … then I taste one like this and I put my druthers aside (for the moment).  “Desicatto” is Latin for dried (not surprising that a College should evoke a dead language) – but this is far from a dead practice here in Ontario.  Nose of smoky and leather notes which give way to dried fig and sweet cherry fruit and a touch of chocolate.  Palate is silky yet spicy with plum, dark chocolate, black cherry and that aforementioned spiciness on the finish.  Rich, delightful and alcohol filled at 14.5% … but what really makes this wine so appealing is that spicy character that helps elevate the rich fruit, keeping it honest.  Only 40 cases made.  So truly a special occasion wine.  Price: $48.00 – Rating: **** ½

Peller 2012 Chardonnay ‘Sur Lie’, Andrew Peller Signature Series - $31.95 (W)
www.peller.com
When handled properly hot vintage Chardonnays, grown in a cool climate region, get something that a hot vintage Chardonnay in a hot climate region doesn’t get … wonderful balancing acidity, which can help carry that rich round ripe fruit without weighing down the palate. Twelve months in all French oak (30% new) delivers butterscotch, vanilla and peach cobbler on the nose with a plethora of white fruit, vanilla and spice on the palate.  But it’s the acidity that helps everyone play well together plus the long, almost creamy, finish.  It’s quite the decadent Chardonnay.  Price: $31.95 – Rating: ****+

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line)


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The Weekly Wine Video Series: Local (Ontario); National (Across Canada) and International
 

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Weekly Ontario Videos

Video #133 - 16 Mile Cellar Chardonnay Comparison
Video #134 - Malivoire 2010 Small Lot Pinot Noir

Weekly National & International Videos

Video #10 - Moutard Grand Cuvee Brut
Video #11 - Hope Family 2011 Treana Red

RECAP:  Great Summer Whites Video Week - June 15-19

Sileni Estates 2013 'The Lodge' Chardonnay
Featherstone 2014 Sauvignon Blanc
Tawse 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay
Kacaba 2014 Jennifer's Pinot Gris
Charles Baker 2014 Ivan Vineyard Riesling

Subscribe to the YouTube channel by clicking here


Bi-Weekly OWR Updates Additional articles on the website and more

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Nothing New This Week - more coming soon

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog):  the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted) 
Taste it Again: Lailey 2008 Canadian Oak Chardonnay

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
June 27, 2015 - Vintages Report can be found here
July 11, 2015 - coming soon


 GRAPE GUY EVENTS Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

Grape Guy Events, highlights from the APP - points to be had:
Six Barrels for Six Chefs ... July 10, 2015 (200 points)
plus the usual video re-tweets ... see the APP for details.

Four new winery partners coming on-board in July.

Don't have the APP? Click here to get it, it's FREE and you could win some great prizes just for downloading.


OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of:  he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges.  He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes.  Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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