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Ontario Wine Review:  Drink Ontario in 2009
(Print a .pdf version of this newsletter.)

The '07's are slowly starting to come onto the market ... the whites are good, but '07 is definitely the year of the red.  Recently I was sent an on-line question about the Ontario 2007 vintage:  “What are your thoughts on [the 2007] vintage?”  I started writing my reply and it got way to long, so I decided to make it an article instead.

Problem with Ontario having a vintage like 2007 is that the next year and the year after will not be as great no matter how good they are – especially when you have been touting ‘07 as “the vintage of a lifetime”.  Consumers that turn to Ontario wine because of the 2007 wines might turn away in ‘08 saying, "this wine is not as good as last year", and that's a problem.  Although we try to educate people on wine they still seem to gravitate towards the Chilean, American (namely California) and Australian wines because they can recreate their sameness year after year.  And the reason people buy French wine is the cache of owning a Margaux or Petrus – Ontario really doesn’t have those icon wineries.  Sure we compare ourselves to the French – same latitude, comparable climate, struggle to get ripeness, good acidity, ageability; but rarely do you hear outside the fanatical Ontario wine drinking community, “Did you try that ’88 Inniskillin Franc, it was killer.”

Sad part is there is no way around it … Ontarians seem less than enthusiastic when it comes to their wines.  Many are still confused about VQA, and sadly, even some of our writers aren’t clear about that stupid 99-1 rule that was passed during the short crop of 2005 (so how on God’s green earth can we expect to public to grasp it?).  Heck, that was the dumbest declaration ever in the history of Ontario wine and set us back 10 years, at least in the public’s eye; people still believe it happens to this day and was not just a one time thing.

Having just recently traveled to BC I saw a wine industry so enamored with itself and the wines it produces that mediocre wines were fetching prices 3 or 4 times what they would get here, and what they are actually worth.  While in Ontario, I’m thrilled to see our prices are in line with quality, and even some that are real steals – out West-Coast way the quality to price ratio is way out of whack.  A few winery principals told me that this bubble will burst soon enough, and there will be an “adjustment”, but as for when that will happen, nobody is sure; and they certainly won’t foist it onto themselves.  It is because of this that I am glad I live in Ontario and drink our local wines – I’m getting a real bargain, though I’m sure our vintners don’t feel the same way.  But what’s wrong with showing some pride in our wine, Ontarians can be so ignorant when it comes to their own locally produced product – some aren’t even aware that our wines (and I’m not just talking icewines here) are competing and winning amongst the best in the world.

A recent wander through my local LCBO saw one guy buying so much “Ontario” wine I was proud – then I noticed that it was the off-shore blend … I asked him if the wine was from Ontario he said proudly and fiercely, “damn right, I only buy Ontario, gotta support the local economy”.  He then got into his pick up and drove to the beer store.  Now I do not want to get off on the blending tangent again, I don’t want you to believe that I am a one-trick pony when it comes to writing about Ontario; but what I am saying is that it is time to educate yourself and the people around you about Ontario wine.  I’m not saying you should stop drinking your Spanish, Italian, French, Australian, Stateside or Other-side of the world wines.  What I am saying is this, over the Holidays get to know your local stuff.  Make a conscious effort to drink a few more Ontario wines this holiday season – make a New Year’s resolution that “I will drink at least one Ontario wine a month, or bi-weekly, or weekly … one more bottle than I usually do.”  There will be no better time to introduce yourself, or your friends, to Ontario wine.  2007 was an amazing vintage, and with the wines starting to hit shelves there is no better time to drink and learn about Ontario … as for the 2008’s, I guess we’ll have to cross that bridge when we come to it; afterall, in the wine game it’s one year at a time.

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Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  Pinot and Gamay

See winery's individual website for details

Henry of Pelham 2007 Pinot Noir - $17.00 (W,L)

www.henryofpelham.com

With the holidays coming you’re going to need yourself a nice Pinot Noir to serve with that turkey, and have I got a suggestion for you.  Why not try something from the outstanding 2007 vintage?  You would think that all that heat would have cooked the delicate Pinot grape, but it seems even the finicky Pinot enjoyed the temps in ’07.  The nose on this beauty is loaded with sour cherry and red currant along with some spices and herbs.  In the mouth you’ll recognize cranberry, sour cherry and lots of other red berries; good mouth watering acidity, sweet tannins and there’s a pleasant touch of dustiness on the finish … this just might be turkey 08’s best friend.

Peller Estates 2007 Private Reserve Gamay Noir - $18.95 (W)

www.peller.com

You may be thinking to yourself that $18.95 seems a little high priced for a Gamay – but I think you best put your lips and nose to this one before passing such a harsh judgment.  First, we don’t have just any Gamay here – it’s the Gamay from that beauty of a growing season known as 2007 – quite possibly the best ever in Ontario.  That allowed the fruit to ripen fully and because of the lack of rain it concentrated all the flavours into very small berries; so although the tonnage yield, the grapes were of very high quality.  Now that you are armed with some background here is the rest of the story … The nose is big on cherry, which is to be expected from Gamay, but there is also plenty of raspberry and some nice vanilla notes in there too.  The taste follows the cherry theme, big cherry, with cinnamon and a touch of sweet oak flavouring.  This wine is light and lovely – perfect to serve around the holidays and it has such a beautiful festive colour to it too.

Weekly Wine Notes and More:  Pelham Merlot, Street Chardonnay, 4 Days in Piedmont, Italy

The Grape Guy presents the "Weekly Wine Note"! A savoury selection of Ontario wines to impress, enjoy, or just plain drink!  A NEW Wine Selection is added every Tuesday or listen to the Podcast.

Here are the Weekly Wine Notes that were added to the Blog and Pod in the past two weeks:
November 25, 2009 - Henry of Pelham 2005 Merlot  (read)  (listen)
December 2, 2008 - 13th Street 2006 Sandstone Chardonnay (read) (listen)

NEW Reports in the On the Road with the Grape Guy section:

Piedmont Italy - Day 1 ... Day 2 ... Day 3 ... Day 4
Southbrook Poetica Launch
Niagara-on-the-Lake Taste the Season 2008