Ontario Wine Review:  Where would you like to buy your wine? – A farmer’s dream
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A few months back I received some startling news, Scotch Block Fruit Winery was/is up for sale.  A real estate agent contacted me and said that a fruit and wine farm was up for sale and if I knew anyone interested in buying such a place.  After looking at the accompanying pictures, I recognized Scotch Block.  A few days later, an email from Bert Andrews (owner of Scotch Block – for now) arrived to clarify his situation about wanting to finally retire and see the world.  He concluded his explanation with, “… the best idea seems to be to sell at the top of our game.”  Accordingly, this would make Bert, the John Elway of the Ontario wine scene.  Within the same email, he switched gears and talked about an issue that’s near and dear to his heart:  selling fruit wine at farmers’ markets.

Bert is hoping to pressure the government through petitions and by citing examples from the U.S. – showing how selling local fruit wines at farmers’ markets helps the economy and brings added and needed exposure to these wineries.  There are plenty of examples of farmers’ market and fruit wineries interacting together; I could cite you half a dozen examples of wineries on fruit market property – but they are not in the “same building”, nor are the wines side-by-side with the produce and products being sold.  Bert believed we should push for this as a “minor election issue”.  My thoughts on the matter – with some additions to the email I sent back to him – are below:

“As much as I believe and advocate for more access to Ontario wines - see my article in the mid-September newsletter making a case for it (Newsletter #65) - I do not see this being an election issue, big or small.  Somehow, we still live in a puritanical society that fears sex and booze ... more booze than sex from the look of our advertising these days; although our neighbours to the south still fear the nipple (the Janet Jackson / Justin Timberlake “nipplegate” at the Super Bowl was recently rated as the #1 celebrity scandal – Entertainment Weekly #951 - August 31, 2007).  They have better liquor laws and regulations which allow for the sale of wine and spirits at markets and at events … a concept we Ontarians know very little about or are allowed access to; but something we should get behind.  As much as people make noise that they want booze in corner stores, it never comes to pass because the LCBO is not about to relinquish its power or control.  Sure the government will always get its share, but the LCBO comes along and fear mongers to the point where people believe babies’ bottles will be filled with alcohol instead of milk because of the "easy access" to alcohol and school children will be washing down their cigarettes with a pint of Jack (Daniels).  I am taking this a bit far but you get the point - until we are able to poke a few holes in these arguments and make people more comfortable with alcohol (as they seem to be with sex), we will not be selling alcohol anywhere but in the LCBO and at our wineries.  Trust me, I would love to grab a bottle of fruit wine at a farmers’ market along with my pie and veggies (and ring it up all on the same bill) ... one stop shopping – that’s what makes America great.”

Believe me, there’s nothing I’d like more than to have the LCBO loosen its grip and allow free market enterprise when it comes to booze (wine especially):  better selection, better quality … or at least permit VQA-only corner-style stores like they have in British Columbia.  The rise and continued popularity of B.C. wine, within its own borders, owes much to these stores; it’s all about ease of access (plus it has been embraced by restaurants and event venues).  It is a fierce following to the point of jingoism for the populace of that province (see Newsletter #17) … all residents, no matter where they live, can get their hands on a bottle of premium BC-VQA wine without having to reside in, or close to, the Okanagan Valley.  The LCBO treats our wineries like competition, thus bringing in the plonk-quality wines (read: cellared in Ontario wine) and for years hiding them and passing them off as product of Ontario.  This thankfully has changed, with better signage at the store level, but more change is needed – and laxing a few laws and loosening a grip on where we can buy VQA-Ontario wine would be a good start.  But unfortunately until we all stand up and say, “we want/need change to our system; want better access to quality VQA-wines and need a free market enterprise, we will not be seeing change anytime soon … heck, I think 1 out of 3 would be a start … but I’ll leave that fight to Larry Paterson.  For now, I guess, we’ll have to keep working within the system and keep trying to poke those initial holes.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  Blends Galore and a Cab Franc Preview Wine
Visit the winery or their website for more details or to purchase these great wines.

NCT Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - $18.95 (W, WTH)

www.nctwinery.com

Not sure why I was so shocked and surprised by this wine, it’s not like the Niagara College Teaching Winery hasn’t been making award winning wines since their inception in 2002; I guess I just wasn’t expecting this tasty little number to be as good as it was when I walked in during the Taste the Season event in late November.  I wasn’t prepared for the spicy black pepper and red fruit nose, nor was I ready for the red fruit loaded palate with plenty of strawberries and its peppery elegance in the mouth.  It won my “best wine” honour for the Taste the Season event – and it had some very stiff competition.  From a teaching winery, go figure – they’re teachin’ ‘em good stuff over there.

Chateau des Charmes 2005 Equuleus - $40.00 (W, WTH)
www.chateaudescharmes.com

The horse is back, bigger, stronger and better than ever.  Chateau des Charmes’ Equuleus is made from grapes harvested across the road at the Paul Bosc Vineyard and it is only made in the best years.  The last time it surfaced was in 2002.  This wine is a full on balls-to-the-wall red with a mixture of black and red fruit, strawberry, raspberry and cassis.  The taste does not disappoint from the promise of the nose, following through with the dark fruits that include blackberries and black cherries.  The tannins are smooth and supple, while the acidity keeps everything in check.  What does this all mean to you?  A wine that’ll age 10 years or more and get better with age … with all the elegance and finesse you’d expect from a wine bearing the Chateau des Charmes name “Equuleus”.
 

Holiday Sweeties – checking in with the newest sweet stuff:  As we get closer to the holidays, our thoughts turn to sweet wines and luscious desserts – here are a few suggestions to make your holidays that much sweeter:

 

Lailey Vineyard 2006 Vidal Select Late Harvest - $19.95 … (W, WTH)

Magnotta 2005 Passito Vidal - $16.95 … (W)

Mountain Road Wine Company 2003 Special Select Late Harvest Vidal - $18.05 … (W)

And for something different, check out …Mill Street Brewing Company Barley Wine - $3.95 (500ml) - (Brewery Only)

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – WTH (Winery to Home)