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Ontario Wine Review:  New York State of Mind – part 2 (Festival Edition)
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Recently I attended the Finger Lakes Wine Festival, my third time in 5 years, and each time I go I am struck by the differences when comparing their festival to anything we do on this side of the border (Ontario).  At this year’s version of the Festival, 98 individual wineries attended, filling up 3 long tents, each containing 3 rows (middle, left and right) … that’s a lot of wineries.  I have been to many Ontario festivals, shows and expos and never have I seen so many actual wineries participated – both local and international combined.  Wineries at the Finger Lakes Festival came from all over New York State to pour and sell their wines.  You read that correctly:  SELL their wines.  Imagine going to Taste the County, Fiesta Buckhorn, the Shores of Erie Wine Festival or the Niagara Wine Festival in Montebello Park and being able to buy the wine you liked directly from the winery’s booth to take home.  Good idea you say, but then I have to lug the wine around with me … ah, not so.  At the Finger Lakes Wine Festival, they give you a sheet of neon orange stickers – one goes on your wine purchase, the other is your claim check … a cart continuously goes around the festival picking up wine purchases and dropping them off at a central point or “Pick up Purchase Here” booth located near the exit (after you pass through the main gate you walk another 30 feet and around a corner and you’re there – you could even park a van out front if needed).  Let me reiterate this:  you can buy the wine directly from the winery booth.  Do you get what this means for everyone involved?

The Winery – Ever noticed that everyone else at a wine show can sell their wares except for the wineries – the main reason you’re there in the first place.  That’s probably one of the reasons why lately there has been a drop in attendance at some of these festivals by individual wineries, because there really is very little incentive for them to attend.  A winery participates, pours wine, gets their name out there – but then it’s now up to the consumer to remember the winery, make notes of the wine they liked, and eventually make their way to the winery.  I suspect that the return rate is probably well below 10%.  Sometimes an event happens at a winery (for example Archibald’s Fruit Wine Festival), but only the host winery makes any money, because they can sell their wine – no one else can.  Why should I, as a winery, attend the event?  Sure, the attending wineries get some money back for their pourings through the tickets they collect (that’s why we pay for wine with tickets); but think how much more wineries would benefit if they could sell the wine right there:  no promise of shipping (or them having to eat the cost of it), no broken or forgotten promises by the consumer to visit “one day”.  Wineries would pour wine and then sell wine.  At the Finger Lakes there are no tickets … but then again, what they pour they can sell.  Everybody would make out okay:  the government gets their share through taxes; you get the wine you like to take home immediately; the winery sells their wine thereby making money directly from their pouring.  Win/Win/Win.

The Event / Organizer – This now becomes a domino effect … because the wineries can sell wine they’ll want to attend the event, meaning more wineries want in – which equals a bigger event.  Promoters would have to turn exhibitors away because they sell out of booths (having to expand the venue next year); instead with the way it is now, promoters sometimes offer bigger booths for less money as the show date nears, thus making the event appear fuller, when in actuality, there are less exhibitors than the previous year.  The New York way, attendance goes way up for both exhibitors and attendees (because they can now buy the product they are tasting).  Revenue goes up … the following year they have a bigger event … more wineries want to attend … and the dominos continue to fall.  Government gets their tax share; promoters get better attendance in exhibitors and attendees; attendees can buy the wines and take them hope immediately.  Win/Win/Win.

The Attendees – I’m sure you see where I am going with this because the domino effect becomes circular at this point.  Attendees can buy wine:  if they like it they can buy it on the spot – period the end.  No writing down the name of the wine or winery, no losing the note in your pocket or the wash, no having to say “honey remember that wine we had at Buckhorn…”  You like it, you buy it, you take it home, you enjoy it … no muss, no fuss.  Government gets their share.  Winery gets their share. You can go home and share.  Win/Win/Win.

So what’s the drawback?  Somebody tell me?  Please somebody voice a dissenting opinion about why we can’t sell Ontario wine at Ontario wine events like they do in the Finger Lakes.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:   Viognier and Barrel Aged Cabernet
Visit the winery or their website for more details or to purchase these great wines.

Smith and Wilson Estate Wines 2006 Viognier - $12.00
www.smithandwilsonestatewines.ca

While some yahoo out in Niagara believes he can get $49 for his 2006 Viognier, let me tell you there’s a better option for much less money; the one drawback is its further away from Niagara – not such a drawback if you’re in the area or willing to make the drive.  In Blenheim, 50km east of Leamington, lies Smith and Wilson, and they make the only Viognier in the Lake Erie North Shore area, from their own 4 year old vines.  An aromatic white that has luscious apple and peach on the nose with flavours of white peaches, apples, pears and a whole lotta pineapple.  This was their first go at making it and it truly is a wonderfully delicious wine made only in stainless steel to preserve that fruity-freshness.

Colio Estate Wines 2005 CEV Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon - $21.95
www.coliowines.com

Christmas has come early at Colio … this is a magnificent offering from this Lake Erie North Shore Winery, lots of bright red fruit, cinnamon and vanilla on the nose.  Before I go further let me tell you this wine rested for 18 months in French and Hungarian oak (with a minimal amount of American wood thrown in).  Back to the wine review:  silky rich tannins envelop the blackberries and oakiness that are still quite prevalent … and is this wine ever smooth going through the mouth.  Let’s pause again for this sidebar:  the fruit was naturally thinned to 2 tonnes per acre “we had nothing to do with that” Tim Reilly, winemaker, told me, “it was all Mother Nature’s decision.”  And now, the finale:  Wait for it … the finish is unmistakable:  cherries and chocolate … oooo mama what a tasty little sucker this is.  And there should be some good ageing potential here, say about 7 years or more.  What’s more, this is the baby – the CEV Merlot and Franc show even better … can’t wait.

Wines available at the winery – Colio also available through WineryToHome.


Summer Selection:  Every newsletter throughout the summer, I will recommend great summer-sippers to make the most of your patio, cottage or boat – click the link below to read this week's picks:

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery 2006 Gewurztraminer - $14.95
Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery 2006 Pinot Gris - $13.95
Viewpointe Estate Winery 2005 Riesling - $14.95

All currently available from the winery only