In a big year like 2012 you'd expect big, blowsy California-style Chardonnay ... but not from the likes of winemaker Dave Sheppard, who is celebrating his 30th vintage in Niagara ... that length of time means he knows how to handle his acid and fruit (that and being a child of the 60's might help too). 100% Hungarian oak for 6-and-a-half months, with no more than 25% new. The nose is peach pit, spice and with a lovely whiff of butterscotch and vanilla ... sounds sweet? Ah, but no. Toasted apple and vanilla-spice take charge in the mouth with a toasty-burnt-butter note near the finish. This wine has elements of California fatness but with that signature cool climate Ontario acidity. Price: $24.95 - Rating: ****+