To look at JL Groux you’d think you were witnessing a mad scientist hard at work, instead of one of Niagara’s most accomplished winemakers … and in some cases you might be right. Here’s a guy who lets his Cabernet Franc vines hang till late November. 2008 was not a fantastic vintage by any stretch of the imagination, but to let them hang that long you know you’ve just gotta have a pair (or a screw loose). Smoky, black raspberry and black cherry are de rigueur but you’ll also find tobacco and cigar box spice. This is a layered and complex wine that has more finesse than the monster 2007. Price: $38.00 – Rating: **** ½