You could fault Thomas B for being formulaic in his approach to wine-making: 20% new French oak, aged 16-18 months, wild fermentation blah blah blah – but when it works (and it more often than not does) you have to hand it to a guy who knows his fruit and its origin. The hot 2016 vintage has given the mouth weight without sacrificing acidity along with the addition of great fruit character, namely peach, apricot, pear and sweet melon. Price: $27.95 – Rating: ****