Thomas B. thinks this is his definitive “Niagara Cru” for 2018 – using 22% whole cluster with 14 months in neutral oak from vines planted in 1990 on the ‘western side’ of the Wismer Foxcroft vineyard. Rich red fruit and floral, plus black cherry, balsamic strawberry, earthy notes, violets, subtle smoke, pepper and a long finish … there even appears to be a little red currant action when the wine stays in glass for a spell. A gulpable Gamay, but with class. Price: $27.95 – Rating: ****