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Ontario Wine Review:  What's Going on in Niagara
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In a recent discussion with a member of the Ontario Wine Society, we found ourselves chatting about the new wineries opening up in the Niagara region.  The member lamented, "it seems, with the exception of Calamus, that the newcomers are high end and expensive."  This was said to me on the heels of opening day at Niagara's newest winery, Hidden Bench (June 2) where policies for visiting and tasting were set out thusly:  "due to the size of the tasting room we do not do groups of more than 8 persons ... require an appointment for groups larger than 4 … tastings are $10.00 for our flight of four estate wines.”  Prices for wines started at $18 (for a rosé); $22 (for Riesling); $30 (Chardonnay) and $40 (white meritage).

What my OWS friend is referring to are the Tawses, the Hidden Benches, the Strati, the Ice House, the Alventoes, and the soon to be, new Southbrook that all seem to be a opening up with wine prices that seem to be priced out of this world; a world that’s more California-centric then Niagara-based.  In a recent interview I read in the North York Mirror, Brian Kroeker, of the Niagara Grape and Wine Festival, was quoted as saying (jokingly I think), “we’re Napa-North, or as we like to say Canapa.”  It would seem that some are taking this to heart.

To date, the best values for VQA-Ontario wines have been at the wineries - and the excitement about the region has been getting out there and finding those finds.  But now a day in Niagara wine country is not just about the gas, the time, and the money for a case or two of your favourites ... it's about the tasting fees that will be levied, purchase or not, and as a writer about, and consumer of, Ontario wines, this concerns me. 

Talking with an employee of Tawse Winery, a few weeks back, I began to see the light about tasting room fees.  "We don't make a lot of wine," he said, "to pour a bottle becomes expensive if you don't sell a bottle or two with each pour.  People come in, see our prices and all they want to do is drink.”  In that case, yes, I agree, charge them for the tasting ... if all they do is come in, taste and walk, then yes a winery should have the right to charge; just like in any business, the bottom line depends on customers purchasing their product.  I also noticed a sign in a winery not too long ago stating that the winery was taking part in the “Responsible Winery Program”; it went on to explain the program and the reason for the tasting levy:  “many people are using the wineries as a roving happy hour and to deter that practice a ‘nominal fee’ will be charged for tastings.”  I am in full agreement with that too.  As a serious wine drinker who tastes, not for the buzz (usually), but to find a bottle of interest, to buy and/or to recommend, the ‘happy hour tasting fee’ makes perfect sense.  But give employees the common sense and leniency to judge the difference.  When a customer comes in, tastes a few and purchases some bottles, don't chase them out into the parking lot for their tasting fee – that just leaves a bad taste in their mouth (so to speak) and will make them leery about returning.  When you spend $100+ on wine, you should not be hunted down for the extra two-bucks.

But it's not just about the tasting fee (I am starting to see the light about that – though the exorbitant prices charged for tasting fees - $10 for four 1oz samples seems a little extreme); it's about the wine prices.  I have long been a proponent of a two-tier wine selling approach:  The under $20.00 and the over $20.00.  The average price most people will pay for an every day drinker is $20.00 (actually between $12 and $20) ... a winery should have a decent to good quality wine within that price range; if you successfully develop a following in that price category, when it comes time to buy that "special bottle" your winery is the one that customers will remember - not the place whose prices begin at $32.00 and have a cover charge of $12 to walk in the door.  As an example of way-out there pricing let’s look at a new winery in Niagara called Alvento, which has just recently released their price list on their website.  They have three wines starting at $32.80, for an ‘04 Meritage red blend; $39.80, for an ’05 red blend; and $49.80, for a Viognier (white).  It's as if new winery owners want to make back their investment right away, instead of being in it for the long haul, building up clientele and goodwill along the way.  My same OWS friend remarked that many of the new owners are hobbyists, not wine people – meaning they made their money (or continue to make their money) elsewhere and not primarily from the winery.  So here’s a little advice for those just starting out:  raise your prices over time, show us (the buying public) what you can do; develop “low-end” and “high-end” wines of quality ... don't storm the gates-of-high-prices and think everyone will come crashing through just because you’re the newest thing in town.  As the old saying goes:  “you only get one chance to make a first impression” – what will your impression be?  People won’t return if they perceive you’re too pricey from the get go – and it’ll take much more work to get them back through your door once you’ve lost them.

Back to my OWS friend again who cites Fielding as a prime example of doing it right: "they have a good mix in their portfolio," he wrote to me, "they have inexpensive and premium tastings.  Something for everyone looking for a winery experience.  Too bad the newer wineries aren't following this model."  Too bad indeed. 

Something to take note of ...  I am in no way back-peddling here, but I like to think kudos should be given when they are warranted, as well as a slap on the wrist, as the situation dictates.  I have done some bashing of a certain winery in my day for their price policies, wine choices, and retail decision … but never let it be said that I do not praise when praise is deemed worthy.  Tawse winery is starting to come around with their price points.  Sure the winery still has wines priced in the upper-stratosphere, but some of their newest wines have been reasonably priced for the average consumer.  Rieslings below $20, Chardonnay Musque in the same range and now they are following it up with a line of Bistro wines (sold in restaurants and available at the LCBO thru Vintages come the fall) called “Echos” – because the winemaking method parallels, or echoes, their usual ways of making wine.  It has something to do with the selection of barrels after ageing and nothing to do with the grapes that go into them.  These wines will retail for $22 - $25, and all considered are very good value (see review below).  Good for Tawse for realizing the hole in their portfolio – now will those you’ve alienated return, and will Tawse produce a red under $20?  Time will tell.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:   Reds - to hold or for the Q
Visit the winery or their website for more details or to purchase these great wines.

Tawse Winery 2005 Echos Bistro Red - $25.00
www.tawsewinery.ca

You might have read a little something about this wine in my report on Somewhereness, which Tawse attended and participated in … but let’s recap:  Echos is named that way because the wine “echoes” their top-tier wine – same vineyards, same attention to detail, same hand harvesting and sorting, same low yield, same barrel ageing – just when it came time to select the “best” barrels these didn’t make the cut … or better yet, the others were a cut above.  Whatever way you say it, this is still one amazing wine.  It’s a 70/30 blend of Cab Franc and Merlot and is Tawse’s first attempt at bringing their wines into the “everyday bottle” price-category; and while the price is still a little up there, they do make a valiant attempt at making their wines more accessible to the masses.  In that context, I say with this wine, they succeed admirably.  The nose will be many things to many people because here we have blackberries, red licorice, cherries, cranberries and some light cinnamon aromas … The taste follows right along with much of the same, including the cranberries, cherries, red licorice and mainly red fruit flavours with the added bonus of vanilla-cola.  Definitely some yumminess here.  The finish is long lasting with hints of that 14-month oak ageing on the tongue.  As for where to get this wine, forget the winery, this is a restaurant or LCBO only purchase.  Subtitled “Bistro Red”, you’ll find this in fine restaurants or in Vintages come this fall – so be sure to not only keep your eyes open for it, but pick up a few bottles when you do see it.  As an aside, the aging potential for this one is also very good – say 7-plus years easy.

Hillebrand Winery 2005 Trius Red - $19.95
www.hillebrand.com

This is the very first solo effort of the Hillebrand flagship Trius Red that winemaker Darryl Brooker has shepherded from start to finish – and another fine addition to the Trius catalogue of great wines.  Trius is traditionally the name given to Hillebrand’s Bordeaux-blend reserve wines made famous by former winemaker J.L. Groux; under Darryl’s care it’s no different.  14 months in primarily French oak barrels (55% of it new); this 47% Sauv, 43% Franc and 10% Merlot is a wonderful wine from the hot, but short-cropped 2005 vintage – and Brooker has put his heart and soul, (and almost all of 2005’s best barrels) into the blend.  This will be the only Trius this year because of the shortfall (there will be no Trius Grand Red and only a limited release of Trius Franc around mid-summer).  In the mouth, you’ll find the wine to be smooth and lush, even at this young point in its life, the wood has really integrated well with the fruit and fine tannins.  The nose shows the promise of this wine with white pepper and other spices, along with cinnamon, allspice, vanilla, plum and a great big bushel of red fruit.  Already three months in bottle, the wine is still a little tight on the palate and requires some decanting or an early opening before serving.  Currently, it shows signs of red fruit, oak and sweet spices with a rather lengthy finish.  Over time this wine will open up on its own, and will deliver the goods right from the bottle.  A good food wine that would pair well with summer’s end, or early fall, BBQs.  As for longevity, Darryl is conservative in his estimates, “I’m comfortable saying between 5-7 years,” he told me … push him and he’ll concede to maybe 10 … and I’m comfortable with that.

Read the review of the inaugural Trius 2006 White blend

The Tawse wine will be available thru Vintages in the fall.
The Hillebrand wine is available at the winery and LCBO.

Summer Selection:  Every newsletter throughout the summer, I will recommend a great summer-sipper to make the most of your patio, cottage or boat – click the link below to read this week's pick:

Legends Estates Winery 2006 Semillon - $16.95
available from the winery only