On the Road with the Grape Guy
Visit to ... Ca' di Sopra – Romagna
21 Nov 2024- Details
- Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy
(February 2024) ... It has been some time since I visited the Romagna area of Italy, and much has changed in that time. When I was last there, they were just introducing the concept of sub-appellations; now they have added a few more. In fact, they started with 12 and have expanded to 16.
Marzano is the smallest of these sub-appellations. They are located south of Faenza and during the terrible floods of 2023, they found themselves in the fortunate position of not being affected as much as other regions. Marzano also has a higher density of vineyards than other sub-appellations ... But they also only have three producers within its borders; Ca' di Sopra being one of them. We were toured and tasted around by one of the principal's, Giacomo Montanari (pictured above).
Established in 1967, Ca' di Sopra is a 52 hectare winery with 28 hectares of planted vines; 17 hectares of which are dedicated to Sangiovese with plantings of Cabernet, Merlot, Albana, Chardonnay, Trebbiano and Pinot Bianco. Their oldest vines were planted in 1989.
Up until 2004, they sold their grapes; then in 2005 they began making wine. At full capacity, they can make upwards of 150,000 bottles - but they are not ready for such a commitment - they still sell a majority of their grapes; holding back enough of the good stuff to create 40,000 bottles of wine under their own label.
In the cellar they use both small and tonneau barrels, along with concrete and stainless steel ... In 2015 they brought in a concrete tank, thinking it would work best with their white wine program; shockingly, it turned out that the reds benefited more from this technology.
The Wines ... (scores out of five stars)
2022 Trebbiano
Spends 6 months in steel and 6 months in concrete. This version of Trebbiano is salty, but with a richness of flavour: grapefruit zest, and a medium length finish all held together with a good acid backbone. (3.5+)
2022 Crepes, Romagna Sangiovese Superiore
This is their flagship wine. It is a blend of all their Sangiovese vineyards. The wine spends 6 months in concrete, keeping its fruit character intact. Dark aromas of cassis and black cherry – palate has good acidity, but also good fruit. It's a gentle, easy drinking wine with cranberry, cherry, and strawberry fruit, along with some pencil shavings and graphite notes that swing in-between the punchy acidity. Quick finish and very sippable. This wine makes up half of the production: 20,000 bottles. (3.5+)
2021 Marzano Romagna
A 100% Sangiovese mixing three vineyards, three soil types, and the best plots. Soil types are calcarous, plus red and blue clay - and each type brings a little something to the wine. The fruit is delayed on the palate as the acidity seems to take charge from sip one. The wine spends 12 months in tonneau and another 12 in bottle before release. That delay pays off as the fruit sidles in, mainly red in nature, and sticks around for a long finish. (4)
2019 Marzano Romagna Riserva, Vigna Ca'del Rosso
A single vineyard wine from 40-year-old vines sitting at 120 to 160 m above sea level. First made in 2016, and quite possibly the best wine on the table today. Lovely dark fruit that delivers a delicious taste explosion in the mouth. It makes you want to sip and sip again. Silky tannins meet a smoky character, before the acidity slips in to balance the whole deal. Very supple. Hints of anise wrap their way around the palate - dipping and diving between the fruit, spice and even a subtle herbaceous note. Long luxurious finish. Gorgeous. 2,500 bottles produced. (4.5)
2019 Marzano Romagna Riserva, Vigna Montale
This vineyard is located at 250 m above sea level and is a new addition to the Ca' di Sopra lineup; so new in fact, this is the first vintage the wine has seen a commercial bottling. The higher elevation results in less intensity of fruit, higher acidity and more elegance than it’s Ca' del Rosso counterpart ... That translates into cherry and floral notes with a nice length - this one took a little longer to express itself, maybe an hour in the glass; then the fruits of cranberry and cherry intermingled with the floral. Pleasant. (4+)