On the Road with the Grape Guy
Cyprus 2024 – Day 1
29 May 2025- Details
- Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy
The history of Cyprus and wine dates way back and, for the most part, is a history of bulk wine, sweet wines, and large companies exporting these wines around the world and into Europe to help makes things more … palateable.
But the current status on Cyprus is much different. Less vineyards, quality wines and small wineries make up the lion's share of what is being produced ... This started approximately 30 years ago, when the European Union stepped in to lay the law down. This created a lot of rip up and land to lay fallow. But all was not lost. An intrepid group stepped into the void … Now "We are at the dawn of a new era for Cyprus wines." These are some of those stories.
Dafermou 
This Winery was established in 2012 ... Interestingly, the winery started out as an event space; and it is through these events they raised money to invest in the vineyards. In 2016, they began planting their vines. Today they have 10 hectares planted and grow at 1.5 hectares per year - they will reach maximum planting at 25 hectares.
Cyprus wineries boast about their phylloxera-free status, thus they plant their own cuttings from their own vines, Dafermou is no different. The survival rate of these clippings is about 90%. When most wineries started in this new era, little was known or respected about indigenous varieties, they were indiscriminately ripped out and there was a movement towards international grapes like Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon were planted. Today there is a movement afoot to learn about, plant and make wine from those indigenous grapes that remain.
Top three wines
Dafermou 2023 Selection 
(grape: Assyrtiko)
Nice mouth-feel with moments of saltiness and a rich texture in the mouth; lemon zest helps contribute to the lengthy finish. (*** ½+)
Dafermou 2021 Selection
(grape: Yiannoudi)
Grapes taken from high altitude vineyards (1100m). The wine spends 12 months in 300L French oak and is also fermented in wood: soft and elegant, pretty with nice dark fruit character, subtly-smoky, cassis and black cherry along with notes of vanilla and graphite. (****)
Dafermou 2022 Selection
(grapes: Syrah 70% / Malbec 30%)
Smoky and soft with an easiness about it; pepper and dark fruit mix, keep everything interesting and together. (*** ½+)
Zambartas
This winery was a wealth of knowledge about Cyprus and its history. For starters, the man who started the winery with his sons, was the first University trained winemaker of Cyprus - he studied at Montpellier. The winery was then established in 2008. Having already learned about the bulk wine history of Cyprus, we got to see the historical evidence in the form of pictures of tankers in the port receiving bulk wine in the hold; imagine an oil tanker today and shipping documentation. The wines in question were a Sherry-style sweet wine.
Here we learn more about the rip up. Subsidies were paid to rip up vineyards due to overproduction, and over the last 30 years, 80 to 90% of Cyprus' grapes have been pulled, leaving vast wastelands of terraced former vineyards in its path.
In those early days, four wineries ruled the island - today, only one survives. 
Cyprus’ transformation is on: from bulk and large producers to smaller wine companies making minute quantities of quality wine. There are also only 14 indigenous grape varieties left - that they know of - being grown on the island, though not all commercially. There are also approximately 50 wineries on Cyprus (or so) - but not all are operating and producing regularly.
Zambartas owns eight hectares and rents another 12 - their vine elevation range is 575m to 1050m above sea level.
Top three wines
Zambartas 2022 Promara
(grape: Promara)
There's a softness and juiciness to this wine, the acidity seems quite pleasant and not too harsh. It is a grape/wine that requires some doctoring in the acid department; usually needing from .5 to 1.0g; in addition to what it creates naturally. It is a rarely made wine on its own. (*** ½)
Zambartas 2021 Margelina - Single Vineyard
(grape: Field Blend - 80% Mavro / Xynesteri (w) / Kanella (w) / Marathetiko / Yianoudi / Ofthalmo)
Bright with acidity and plenty of cherry notes. Light in both colour and body. Very fresh. Good display of tannins. (****)
Zambartas 2022 Maratheftiko
(grape: Maratheftiko)
Name of this grape means "trickster" and it resides in (maybe) 2-3% of vineyards: Big, ripe cherry, smoky-vanilla, and even has a little heft, yet it still comes across fresh. Another grape I want to see more from. (****)
