Newsletter #253 - Ontario at the Crossroad (part 6): Show Your Best

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MichaelPinkusWineReview Newsletter #253             April 2015

• WineReview: Ontario at the Crossroad (part 6): Show Your Best
  

• Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wine

• Weekly Wine Video Series:  A Recap of This Week's Videos

• Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Additional Articles and more

• Wine Event Spotlight:  See What's Going on in Wine Country

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WineReview:  Ontario at the Crossroad (part 6): Show Your Best

This newsletter should be subtitled “The Spirit of Cuvee” because I am going to use Cuvee 2015 to highlight what I am about to say about showing your best.  Now before I start, let’s get some things out of the way; I like the new format of Cuvee (held in Niagara at the end of February); but back in March 2012 I was less than impressed and lambasted the event for not being what they claimed "excellence in Ontario winemaking", a horrible competition and just a convoluted showcase for Ontario wines in general (you can see the original article here)

I am told (and would like to think it true) it was that article that sparked some changes, though I suspect there were already right minded thinkers who knew things weren’t going so well and used the article as fodder for their side of the argument.  Since then Cuvee has changed their format, and at first I was once again not a fan (even before attending I had words to say - see article here), but since then I have changed my tune and quite enjoy the single wine per winery format which puts more focus on the wines themselves (as expressed in this article).  So as you can see I have my fair share of history with Cuvee,

I like the new format from two vantage points:  As a wine writer I like it because there are fewer wines to try and thus it is a valuable venue for gauging what winemakers think is their best wine (keep this phrase in mind as we go forward).  As a consumer I like the fewer wines option for the fact that it is “the best wine” that a winery is offering up, it helps to gauge a winery’s style: is it to my liking based on what they feel is their best wine.  But is that a correct statement for all wineries involved in Cuvee?  Are wineries pouring their best based on what the winemaker thinks (as Cuvee intended), or is it what the marketing department wants to flog? I’m telling you right now, from first hand experience, in some cases the marketing department has definitely hijacked the decision, and that’s a real shame because it is not in the spirit of what Cuvee stands for – they have bastardized the spirit of Cuvee.

The way I understand the new “rules” for Cuvee wines it is the winemaker of the participating winery who gets to pick his or her favourite, or best wine – 2 in total … To keep things in balance a selection committee is convened, meaning if too many winemakers pick Chardonnay as their number one wine then their second selection is determined to be the selection they pour at the event.  Not sure whether this is a first come first allowed process, but I have not heard many tell me the wine they are pouring was their second selection – so I would say the second-tier occurrence is rare.

Remember, the selection is supposed to be the “best / favourite” wine made by that winery (read: the one you’re most proud of), as selected by their winemaker – and some really take that to heart: Trius (Hillebrand) 2012 Grand Red; Coyote’s Run 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon David Sheppard Vintage 30; Thirteenth Street 2012 Sandstone Gamay; Cooper’s Hawk 2012 Cabernet Franc Reserve; Creekside 2011 Broken Press Syrah; Lailey 2012 Impromptu; Magnotta 2011 Enotrium Gran Riserva; Cave Spring 2012 CSV Riesling; Big Head 2013 Chenin Blanc – just to name a bunch of wineries who did put their best wine forward to showcase what this industry can do.  I would say 85%-90% do it right.

So really what I’m talking about here are the 10-15% of wineries who make a mockery of this premier event by pouring frivolous wines that are far from their best – instead they use Cuvee as a sales tool for an LCBO brand or something to flog during the weekend on the passport program (and you know who you are).

Cuvee is not a wine fair where you are trying to sell wine (although that is a nice offshoot) – it’s a showcase event: your best wine, your flagship wine.  People paid good money (in some cases $200 a head) to walk in the door and be dazzled by good food and Ontario’s best wines and you insult them with a marketing trick.  I am reminded of the first year under the new format, where Malivoire poured their Lady Bug Rosé.  Their best? Hardly.  This year I’m happy to report Malivoire poured their 2011 Stouck Meritage  … now that’s a wine that can be identified as what Malivoire is excelling at these days and possibly at the upper-echelon of their wine making portfolio. And that’s the whole point of Cuvee.

And here’s a little advice for the “selection committee” (if you really exist), feel free to call “bullshit” on some of these wineries; if you’re there to regulate the ratio of whites to reds and Chardonnays to Pinot Noirs, it’s time to add ‘keeping the marketing department out of it’ to you list of Cuvee Faux Pas.

If wineries want Ontario consumers to take them seriously and invest their hard earned dollars in local wines (which they already perceive as being expensive), when you’re asked to pour your best, you damn well better at least go top 5 – not bottom rung LCBO pabulum, or what you’re most trying to sell. When I think of this practice I am reminded of the movie Sideways and what Milo said at the very first tasting room the boys visited, “Well, usually they start you on wines with learning disabilities” - $200 dollars should not buy you a tasting of that – that is what your winery’s tasting room is for.

This goes for any and all wine showcases where Ontario is to show their best – national and international, in other words, keep the crap at home and keep your LCBO brands where they belong.

Now get with the program and put your best wines forward: take back the night of great wine by pouring just that.  As for the rest of you – keep up the good work.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  New and Noteworthy Wines

Calamus 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon - $29.00 (W)
www.calamuswines.com
Starts with dark fruit and spice layering in cinnamon, vanilla and cassis with each additional sip – then pencil shavings and firm tannins take hold on the finish.  This one needs time to settle to let the fruit more fully integrate, especially towards the finish. A wine that shows great potential for the future. Drink 2016-2020.  Price: $29.00 - Rating: ****

Coyote’s Run 2012 Cabernet Franc, Rare Vintage - $32.95 (W)
www.coyotesrunwinery.com
Coyote’s Run only puts the “Rare Vintage” moniker on those bottles they deem a wine offering up something unique in a particular vintage … 2012 gave them the opportunity (more than once), this time it is for their Cabernet Franc.  The nose smells of tobacco and earthy notes, at first reminiscent of Pinot Noir, followed by aromas of cherry, strawberry and violets also showing up.  The flavours explode in the mouth with raspberry and strawberry dominating, while delicate smoke and cigarette ash also appear to round out all that fruit.  Totally shippable and delicious … Only 100 cases made.  Price: $32.95 – Rating: **** ½

Jackson-Triggs 2012 Red Meritage, Grand Reserve - $24.95 (W)
www. jacksontriggswinery.com
Winemaker Marco Piccoli seems to have taken full advantage of the beauty vintage of 2012 … here he blends 35% Cabernet Franc and Merlot with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon to make a dark and delectable red.  Blackberry, plum, mocha, black raspberry, smoke and vanilla all make an appearance on the nose, palate or both.  Tannins help keep the fruit honest making this a true delight of structure and richness, yet still shows a nice restraint of that power.  Price: $24.95 – Rating: ****+

Reif 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve - $29.95 (W)
www.reifwinery.com
Over the years Reif has excelled at hot vintage wines that have over-delivered (and we expect a lot in hot vintages).  This Cabernet is one such wine.  Nose follows taste and vice versa: rich plum, cherry and chocolate accost both senses with no let up in sight … the mouthfeel is almost thick and with sweet richness that makes me think appasimento style – but it’s also smooth and silky with a wonderful tannin backbone that does not get in the way of that rich, succulent, sexy (and just the right side of jammy) fruit.  Price: $29.95 - Rating: **** ½

Strewn 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Terroir - $36.00 (W)
www.strewnwinery.com
Talk about a year for Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 definitely was, and after 21 months in a mix of 50/50 old and new French and American oak the Strewn version has made its appearance.  Really lovely aromas of chocolate, licorice, blackberry and raspberry that tickle and tingle the olfactories.  Mouthfeel is a silky-supple mix of chocolate, raspberry, plum and cherry – I likened it to a port-like flavour and winemaker Marc Bradshaw admitted he likes to let his Cab Sauv hang up to a month longer than most giving it that richer mouthfeel … Mission accomplished.  Price: $36.00 – Rating: **** ½+

Tawse 2011 Merlot, David’s Block - $49.95 (W)
www.tawsewinery.ca
This small production (1300 bottles) Merlot is one of the last of its kind … winter 2013 killed much of the Merlot in David’s Block so soon this wine will be a collector’s item.  Aromas are of the smoky-blueberry and cassis ilk, while the palate spices up those blueberries, adds cassis and black cherry all wrapped in layers of tannin and smoke.  It’s still pretty tight, so you’ll want to hang on or decant before serving.  Price: $49.95 – Rating: ****

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line).

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The Weekly Wine Video Series: Local (Ontario); National (Across Canada) and International

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Weekly Ontario Videos

Video #127 - Westcott Vineyards 2013 Chardonnays
Video #128 - Flat Rock Cellars 2013 Riesling

Weekly National & International Videos

Video #003 - Michael Sullberg 2012 Chardonnay Reserve (California, USA)
Video #004 - Borgo Scopeto 2010 Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy)

Subscribing to the YouTube channel by clicking here

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Additional articles on the website and more

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Stem Wine Group Annual Tasting, 10th Anniversary

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog):  the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted) 
Taste it Again: 6 Red Wines on NFL Playoff Weekend
Taste it Again: Pinot Noir & Chardonnay
Taste it Again / Lost & Found: Super Bowl Super Tasting

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
May 2, 2015 - Vintages Report can be found here
May 16, 2015 - coming soon

Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

The Sake Institute of Ontario (SIO) is honoured to present the 3rd annual "Kampai Toronto", the largest sake festival in Canada. Showcasing over 120 of the best sake produced in Japan and North America. Every grade & style of sake will be presented, along with a myriad of appetizer-style foods courtesy of local Restaurant Partners.  Thursday May 29th - 6:30PM-9:00PM … The Historic Distillery District, 55 Mill Street, Toronto - Fermenting Cellar and the Thompson Landry Gallery.  More details can be found by clicking here.
http://kampaitoronto.com/#overview

The 5th annual Niagara Food & Wine Expo “serves up a world of flavour” May 1-3 at the Scotiabank Convention Centre in Niagara Falls, Ontario.  For more information on the Niagara Food & Wine Expo, please visit NiagaraFoodandWine.ca.

Importing Wine for Pleasure & Profit Seminar … Saturday June 6th, 2015 (9:30 a.m.-4 p.m) at The Old Mill Inn & Spa, Toronto.   C. Steven Trenholme, a 30-year veteran of the international beverage alcohol industry, gives you the details on how to import wine, spirits and beer into the Ontario marketplace for personal use or as a career.  $325.00 includes seminar, material, lunch and 30 days of online consulting. Pre-Registration Required Contact -- C.S. Trenholme & Associates, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Summer Solstice Concert Event 2015 … Join Tawse Winery for the highlight of their summer “The Summer Solstice concert” - June 27th.  This year's entertainment features The Jim Cuddy Band, The Stampeders and Christopher Plock & Errol Fisher! Delicious food items from a host of local food vendors will be available to pair with Tawse wines! Admission ($129 + tax) includes a commemorative Tawse wine glass.  Doors open at 5 pm and entertainment commences at 5:30 pm.  Details can be found here.

Kick off your summer at the ultimate backyard bash held over the May long weekend in Wine Country! This year at Peller Estates Winery, the 4th annual Food Truck Eats will bring together 15 Food Trucks and 5 pop-up food vendors to deliver some of the most daring, tasty and innovative street food available, alongside some award-winning VQA Peller wines.  Get your tickets here.

Join the wineries of Niagara-on-the-Lake for their annual for Sip & Sizzle as 25 wineries offer a unique grilled food and VQA wine pairing. Taking place all 5 weekends in May.  Tickets can be found here

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of:  he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges.  He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes.  Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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© MichaelPinkusWineReview.com 2015. All rights reserved. You may use the content of this newsletter by including full credit to Michael Pinkus, Grape Guy and a link to www.michaelpinkuswinereview.com

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