Newsletter #254 - Enough Already

14 May 2015

MichaelPinkusWineReview Newsletter #254

            May 2015

  • WineReview: Enough Already

  • Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wine

  • Weekly Wine Video Series:  A Recap of The Week in Videos

  • Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Additional Articles and more

  • Wine Event Spotlight:  See What's Going on in Wine Country


WineReview:  Enough Already

WARNING: Some language in the following article may not be suitable for some readers.

I was reading an article this passed January and it got me hot under the collar - even now several months later:  Have you heard … in typical U.S. fashion the Californians are threatening to sue.  Alright, maybe not sue, but they certainly don’t want the new rules governing BC and favouring its wines over those from anywhere else in the world to continue.  So I say: “Fuck California” ... and anyone else who wants to stop Ontario wineries from owning their own market.  (article)

Just like here in Ontario the Californians enjoy a very comfortable position on wine store shelves and in the hearts and minds of wine consumers … every year during the California wine fair held in April, the California Wine Institute holds a circle-jerk lunch to thank the LCBO for being the LCBO and the LCBO thanks California Wines for being California wines – it really is an embarrassing moment for both entities as they try to outdo each other for the most hyperbolic thank you.  But in truth neither one cares how they come across, they are making money hand over fist while our own wineries struggle to find a foot hold in their own backyard.  It truly is shameless and disgusting, but if I were California I wouldn’t want to have any real competition either so I would fight to keep my position in the marketplace.

But when it comes to internal issues, where we are trying to find our footing and fight for more independence in our beer and wine sale, California should really mind its own business.  Yes I know the new BC measures favour grocery stores willing to stock only BC wines, or at least display the wines in a more favourable position, but I have not seen Ontario or Canada filing a grievance over any of the 100s of US wine stores that prominently display US wines over other countries output.  In the one store I travel to regularly in Michigan I have to pass through all the California/US wines before I get to the limited display of every other country in the world, and in the grocery store it’s an even smaller “world wine” section.  Easily, in both cases, the store is ¾ US and ¼ world – and this could be said for a majority of US wine merchants.  So why are they picking on poor BC who is just trying to own their market like so many wine producing countries have done before them.

That fear of pissing off the Americans plays into why the Liberal government here in Ontario did not allow wine in grocery stores because it needs “further study” … Let’s forget for a second that the Liberals picked on the easier target, beer, and left the wineries to fend for themselves.  They talk about wanting to re-purpose stores from the Wine Rack and Wine Shop, which are “grandfathered” under certain clauses that allow them to operate without fear of the Canada-European Union (Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement (CETA) and the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA).  If they were to be repurposed than the grandfathering goes along with them.  But the government backed down out of fear of legal action.

The world has had a free reign in our backyard long enough – sure I want to see wines from other countries populate our shelves, but I also want to see our own wineries being able to make a buck in an unrestricted system, just like those other countries have managed to achieve within there’s.  Time to stop being afraid to move ahead because we might offend someone … but then again how much more Canadian can you get.

 


Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  New and Noteworthy Wines
 

By Chadsey’s Cairns 2013 Chenin Blanc - $26.00 (W)
www.bychadseyscairns.com
There ain’t too much Chenin being grown in Ontario and I’m willing to bet there isn’t one like this made in the province … This Prince Edward County produced number has pleasant aromas and flavours of pear and floral – it’s very pretty – but it’s the mineral aspect that truly makes it unique and a Chenin worth trying.  Price: $26.00 – Rating: ****

Featherstone 2013 Chardonnay, Canadian Oak - $21.95 (W)
www.featherstonewinery.ca
A limited 334 case production wine – and why not, as one of only a handful of wineries using Canadian oak Featherstone can be selective about what goes into those barrels.  All estate fruit goes through wild fermentation (aka: using indigenous yeast) and then spends 12 months in those barrels aging coming out the other side with aromas of apricot, tangerine (pith and zest), butterscotch, toffee, peach and caramel apple.  Palate is quite stone-fruit-esque along with apple puree, vanilla and a touch of caramel on the long finish.  Price: $21.95 – Rating: ****+

Huff Estates 2013 Pinot Gris - $20.00 (W)
www.huffestates.com
Here’s a different take on Pinot Gris – 40% oaked with 10% new oak – giving the wine a decidedly Chardonnay-like mouthfeel: apple and pear fruit show off a creamy texture with some depth of spice … this is better than the usual stuff you find under the label of a bottle of Pinot Gris – it’s almost like a Pinot Gris in Chardonnay clothing – and it’s nice to see a new take on this usually boring grape.  Price: $20.00 – Rating: ****

Lailey 2013 Cabernet Franc, unfiltered - $35.00 (W)
www.laileyvineyard.com
This wine has a couple of my favourite features: Cabernet Franc grapes and the “Unfiltered” moniker – the unfiltered means that nothing has gotten in the way of the “purity” of this wine from barrel to bottle.  Nose seems to be a plethora of aromas: herbal, floral, violets, crushed raspberries, cranberry and a touch of tobacco … palate shows off a supple, juiciness yet also some spicy raspberry elements and a little herbaceousness (in a good way). Pretty and light with a spiced-tobacco ending that turns the supple into delicate on the finish.  Price: $35.00 – Rating: ****

Tawse 2013 Riesling, Carly’s Block - $31.95 (W)
www.tawsewinery.ca
For a producer set on making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay Tawse has branched out quite nicely with such grape varieties as Cabernet Franc and Riesling.  Though I think I have officially lost count of the number of Rieslings that grace the Tawse portfolio, but let’s just say there’s more than three.  Carly’s Block Riesling is a mineral-laced wine with green apple on the nose and peach pit on the palate.  There’s also a hint of petrol lingering on the nose and finish that shows off a long stony / mineral linger.  Price: $31.95 – Rating: ****+

Thirty Bench 2012 Cabernet Franc, Small Lot - $45.00 (W)
www.thirtybench.com
There’s a movement afoot to use a percentage of American oak in the making of Cabernet Franc wines … here winemaker Emma Garner has used 10% in this 300 case production – cropped at two tons to the acre and aged in 50% new oak. Thirty Bench really has taken great care in crafting this 2012 version.  Aromas are floral and herbal with touches of raspberry flickering in and out … Palate shows off a great mouthfeel where those floral and herbal notes show up but are now mingling pleasantly with raspberry, vanilla, white cherries and silky tannins.  The finish doesn’t let up either, with great herbal, cherry, vanilla and tobacco notes on the rather lengthy linger.  Beware of the 14.5% alcohol that hides within, it’ll seduce you too.  This one is too good to miss.  Price: $45.00 – Rating: **** ½+

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line).


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The Weekly Wine Video Series: Local (Ontario); National (Across Canada) and International
 

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Weekly Ontario Videos

Video #129 - Daniel Lenko 2009 Syrah
Video #130 - Two Sisters Vineyards 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay

 

Weekly National & International Videos

Video #005 - Mission Hill 2010 Oculus (British Columbia, Canada)
Video #006 - Highway 101 Cellars 2012 Zinfandel (California, USA)

Subscribing to the YouTube channel by clicking here


Bi-Weekly OWR Updates Additional articles on the website and more

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Get Fresh in the Valley 2015
French Wine Connection, Toronto
Ontario Wine Awards 2015

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog):  the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted) 
Nothing New This Week - more coming soon

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
May 16, 2015 - Vintages Report can be found here
May 30, 2015 - coming soon


Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

The Sake Institute of Ontario (SIO) is honoured to present the 3rd annual "Kampai Toronto", the largest sake festival in Canada. Showcasing over 120 of the best sake produced in Japan and North America. Every grade & style of sake will be presented, along with a myriad of appetizer-style foods courtesy of local Restaurant Partners.  Thursday May 29th - 6:30PM-9:00PM … The Historic Distillery District, 55 Mill Street, Toronto - Fermenting Cellar and the Thompson Landry Gallery.  More details can be found by clicking here.
http://kampaitoronto.com/#overview

Importing Wine for Pleasure & Profit Seminar … Saturday June 6th, 2015 (9:30 a.m.-4 p.m) at The Old Mill Inn & Spa, Toronto.   C. Steven Trenholme, a 30-year veteran of the international beverage alcohol industry, gives you the details on how to import wine, spirits and beer into the Ontario marketplace for personal use or as a career.  $325.00 includes seminar, material, lunch and 30 days of online consulting. Pre-Registration Required Contact -- C.S. Trenholme & Associates, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Summer Solstice Concert Event 2015 … Join Tawse Winery for the highlight of their summer “The Summer Solstice concert” - June 27th.  This year's entertainment features The Jim Cuddy Band, The Stampeders and Christopher Plock & Errol Fisher! Delicious food items from a host of local food vendors will be available to pair with Tawse wines! Admission ($129 + tax) includes a commemorative Tawse wine glass.  Doors open at 5 pm and entertainment commences at 5:30 pm.  Details can be found here.

Kick off your summer at the ultimate backyard bash held over the May long weekend in Wine Country! This year at Peller Estates Winery, the 4th annual Food Truck Eats will bring together 15 Food Trucks and 5 pop-up food vendors to deliver some of the most daring, tasty and innovative street food available, alongside some award-winning VQA Peller wines.  Get your tickets here.

Join the wineries of Niagara-on-the-Lake for their annual for Sip & Sizzle as 25 wineries offer a unique grilled food and VQA wine pairing. Taking place all 5 weekends in May.  Tickets can be found here


OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of:  he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges.  He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes.  Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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