On the Road with the Grape Guy27 Apr 2020
- Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy
Talk about a place in history – Biondi Santi is the original Brunello producer; they have records dating back to 1888 – which proves they were the first makers of what is now called Brunello.
Today they are a 32 hectares property, having added a few extra hectares with the recent acquisition of a neighbouring property. They currently produce about 90,000 bottles annually and take the “Riserva” in their line-up exceptionally seriously: where many will put out a reserve wine every year, Bondi Santi has released a Riserva only 39 times in their long history (2012 being their latest offering).
They also take their mainstay grape (Sangiovese) very seriously, breaking their vineyard down into 12 sub plots and tasting and watching how the wines from these different aspects of terroir react to their winemaking practices. The oldest planting on the property goes back to 1936 and they use clone BBS11 – you can probably figure out what the “BS” stands for (seems like a double-entendre, but it is not meant to be) … Brunello Biondi Santi 11 – and is a clone of Sangiovese Grosso. The whole property is 150 hectares with olive trees dotting the landscape.
It is interesting to note that while the first official wine called “Brunello” was in 1888, the first mention of the word / wine was some 19 years earlier in 1869.
The Wines …
2016 Rosso di Montalcino
From the powerhouse 2016 vintage this wine is a deliciously juicy and fruit forward version of Montalcino Rosso: sour cherry, tobacco and slightly herbaceous on the nose, while the palate has driving acidity, delicious red fruit and a good tannin backbone with subtle cigar box and tobacco on the finish – elegant and fruity. (****+)
2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva’s are sacred at Biondi and 2011 was considered a Riserva year … but this is not that – therefore only the usual grapes go into it. Plenty of intrigue in the bottle with dried cherry, herbal-tobacco notes on the nose with subtle oxidative notes; but when the palate kicks in there is earthy and sour cherry while the acidity and tannins keep everything in balance. The finish lingers with smoke, sour cherry and red currants. (****)
2009 Brunello di Montalcino
This was a year when no Riserva wines were made so even the oldest of their vines appear in this wine. This one has a real earthiness about it with a pronounced oxidative note, but also sour and black cherry, anise and tobacco on the nose. Palate is a little chalky with earthy and cherry flavour – the tannins come across quite aggressive while the finish does not push fruit forward but instead it hangs out in the background. (*** ½)
2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
This is Franco Biondi Santi’s 24th and final Riserva under his winemaking reign, therefore it is dedicated in his honour … still just a baby but with a nose of tobacco and dark fruit – the aromatics are deep and will need time to release … palate is layered with tobacco, balsamic, earthy, black currant and spice, the acid / tannin backbone proves powerful with notes of sour red fruits on the finish … it’s definitely a ballsy wine with age-ability – be nice to see it at both the 10 and 20 year mark. (****+)
1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “La Storica”
The grapes come from the oldest vines on the property (at that time 25 years of age) … The “Storica” label means it has been in the Biondi-Santi historical cellar and this wine is receiving a re-release sometime in 2020. The aromas are violets, sour cherry, cranberry and currants while the flavours are dried and dense with dark fruit, tobacco, cigar-box, balsamic and a long mouth-drying finish. (****)